For Fall/Winter 2010, Yigal Azrouel was all about architectural tailoring that blurred the fine line between his menswear and womanswear. There was much attention to details like leather inserts and sexy back cutouts. The color story consisted of black, brown, gray, cream and flashes of color shown in a bright red coat and a magenta evening dress. Some key pieces were leather jackets, tubular knits, patchwork sweaters and strong sleek suits.— Maria Giannakakis
Photos by Nari Kim
Architectural pleats and layers dominated Adam Lippes’ namesake label this season. Bold berry hues and rich burnt orange played right into the F/W season with neutral cool greys, black and charcoal. Exposed metal zippers and dark sequin effects added a clean line of rigidity to the feminine shapes in luxurious fabrics, leathers, and fur. The warmth of the collection waxed and waned as neutrals floated in between burst of traditional fall hues. Metal appliques gave a protective coat of armor and deliberate, sharp tailoring hinted at a fitted form. The use of clearly girlish touches in crinkle pleated skirts mixed deliciously with cozy thick cable knits coated in foil. The few but purposeful and beautiful prints in the collection shone from the subdued first plaids to the last abstract animals. ADAM’s Fall/Winter collection simply just gets better the more you look at it. — Rachel Rozzi
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
Six of the best and brightest students at the Academy of Art University debuted their collection at the tents at Bryant Park on Saturday, February 13th. The collections are representative of 4 of the school’s programs: Fashion, Knitwear, Technical and Textile Design. I always look forward to this show, if only to take a peek at what young designers are thinking about, if they’re questioning or reacting to the current climate of Fashion or if their approach is more interior. More often than not, their ideas are always conceptually rich, drawing from models of nature, or the history of photography or painting or architecture. Sometimes, it is the personal telling of someone’s memory or past. It is always exciting to see how they will translate it into clothing, and being that Fall is always big on knits, I was ready for some textural surprises. Knits in beautifully geometric shapes sprouted cone-like off of shoulders in Steven Oo’s merino wool collection, inspired by the Architecture of Massimiliano Fuksas. Hyo Sun An created spaghetti like strings hanging riotously off of shoulders on strong silhouettes which quite easily felt sci-fi and kind of streetwise/rock and roll. The romantic, prairie like creations of Naomi Sutton was my own personal favorite. It felt both dark and naieve, almost Amish, with long white cotton dresses that resembled undergarments taking on an American goth feel. Sabah Mansoor nestled jewel shaped crystals in her crocheted knits which had an interesting stars in the night sky effect. She also employed a Japanese technique of dying which consisted of creating a pattern by binding, stitching, folding and twisting fabric. Marina Solomatnikova’s collection was elegant, feminine and had a strong art-deco feel, with high silk blouses peeking out of structured sueded jackets. Bethany Meuleners truly employed the layering technique in her deep plunging gowns, mixing sheer chiffon over wool and lace and letting them as she states,”land off kilter.” A promising show for 6 young designers to watch.
—Jeanie Kwak
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
For Fall/Winter 2010, BCBGMAXAZRIA presented a sophisticated and feminine collection. Neutral tones were the dominating color in this season’s palette. Colorblocked with vibrant touches of yellow and blue, together with classic shades of black, grey and navy, they created clean geometric silhouettes. Leather piping and trimming details added to the geometric aesthetic. Prints were simple and graphic inspired in muted colors. Embellishments were also minimal. Some sequins and studs appeared to be painted on in brush strokes onto cropped tops and dresses. The main theme was the asymmetrical draping of flowing silk dresses and tops which were then layered and/or belted in almost every look. This collection is for a modern urban woman with a refined yet effortless style.
—Maria Giannakakis
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
Behind the scenes at Marc Bouwer’s upcoming fashion show for fall 2010. Maria Giannakakis interviews supermodel Candice Swanepoel and designer Marc Bouwer about his upcoming virtual online fashion show coming February 18th, 2010. Look for Marc Bouwer’s show on www.marcbouwer.com.
Film by Stevyn Llewelyn