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fashion

Oh No, Narciso

narcisoAfter showing for several years in Chelsea, Narciso Rodriguez found himself back in the tents of Bryant Park for Fall 2009. However, nine o’clock is a difficult time slot for any designer to present a collection.  By then, show-goers have done the “hurry up and wait” routine over and over, we’ve dealt with stress and crowds all day and are simply worn out.  As for me, I was happy that Mr. Rodriguez opted for the tent this time and I didn’t have to hike over to The West Side Highway (well, almost), rather, I just had to go a few steps over from the Salon where Domenico Vacca had just ended.  The tent was overcrowded, of course, and people were highly irritable.  As a long time admirer of the humble designer, I tried to relax and wait patiently for the show to begin.  Claire Danes and Julianna Margulies were sitting upfront (just as last season) along with Jessica Seinfeld.  Kanye West (most likely influenced by his new model girlfriend, Amber Rose) was there as was Fern Mallis, Linda Fargo and Simon Doonan.  NY1’s society reporter George Whipple was also in attendance (my mind is still boggled that he covers fashion).

The first seven or eight pieces appearing on the runway were in khaki, black and white — very typical of Rodriguez’s sophisticated range.  Usually, he infuses his neutral palettes with at least one pop color, but this time he chose several.  His color selections were brighter and cleaner for Fall ’09 — so much so, they were given names such as; highlighter pink, highlighter yellow, ultra purple and citrine.  Rodriguez seemed to draw inspiration from 80’s legend Steven Sprouse.  Fashion, as we are all aware, is cyclical and the Day-Glo colors were refreshing and looked current.

Unlike the colors, I didn’t find the styling to be new looking or particularly modern.  Apart from the lace-layered, printed camouflage and the onyx, matte lurex/wool tweed, the only other standout was the oversized thimble (or gumdrop) shaped hats with cut-outs for the eyes.   The overall silhouette was narrow and sexy and very much what love about and have come to expect from Mr. Rodriguez’s clothes.  But, I felt that this season’s cleavage-focused, skin-tight, viscose knit dresses were only suitable for Pamela Anderson.  They also contrasted drastically from the other pieces in the collection (which were much safer in terms of revealing the body).  On the opposite end of the spectrum, Rodriguez showed an oversized rain jacket in black and white camouflage print paired with matching (full, boot-covering) leggings.  Camouflaged she was not, as the model looked like a cow grazing through a pasture.  If a pencil-thin model can’t pull this off, I thought, who can?

I did find some “winners” within the thirty-nine looks Narciso presented.  The highlighter yellow wool jacket and dress were perfectly sculpted and the bright silk crepe dresses embroidered on top with shimmery black made a bold statement.  Overall, this wasn’t Narciso Rodriguez’s best season.  He has been so good for so long, the fashion world’s expectation of this designer is probably beyond what anybody can possibly deliver.  It certainly wasn’t a bad collection, but it just wasn’t as good as I’d hoped.  In Narciso’s case, there is always next time!

-Stacy Lomman
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn


fashion

Christian Siriano Fall 2009

siriano1Christian Siriano aimed to give “the modern working girl a bit of Cleopatra’s drama” with his Egyptian-inspired Fall 2009 collection. Expect gold, chocolate brown, and dark turquoise in bold shapes and cuts. Intriguing styles include a satin high collar, puff sleeve blouse with sculpted front petals, a sleek vest slipped over a cashmere cowlneck sweater, and a number of hard metallic pieces suggestive of the sacred scarab beetle.

One can never have too many coats in the fall, and Siriano provides a wide range of flattering silhouettes, from the classic peacoat with gold zippers, to outerwear with cinched waists, bell sleeves, and tuxedo pintuck details. There were also several one-shoulder ruched dresses, but Siriano does especially well with his grandiose gowns, complete with a daring headdress, gathered train, and hammered satin layers. The gold lips and those fetching, fringed bangs brought a nice costume effect.

Siriano also debuted his shoe collection for Payless.  The gold pyramid heels, stacked chains, and subtle hieroglyphic print complemented the Egyptian theme, but would make the transition marvelously onto city streets.

– Tiffany Chang

See more photos from the Christian Siriano show below


fashion

3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2009

phillip_lim1Phillip Lim showcased a very futuristic approach in his vision of Britain in the 1960s. Backed by a live performance from singer Lissy Trullie, the feminine swinging frocks and masculine charcoal and leather palette conveyed a chic and glamorous capsule of the era.

Powder trenchcoats, buttoned cream leather gloves, and pastel pantsuits were prim and classy. Revolutionary jackets were updated with ivory wool and silver trim, and ruffled high collar blouses dazzled in magenta and goldenrod, both shown over spice tapered trousers. Sheer floral A-line dresses, a strapless fur-embellished tank, and this cropped blazer blessed with the Midas touch bestowed the right amount of flair to the black jackets and heavy outerwear.

The streets and narrow alleys of London were kept alive with black & silver stripes over burgundy tights, lace wristlets, sequined tanks, and jumbo gold-studded leather handbags, all topped off with a short bob and sleek bangs. Christian Louboutin provided the red-bottom soles for both men and women. The dangling gold chain, open-face pocket watch is the only (perfect) thing missing in this very sophisticated line.

– Tiffany Chang

See more looks from the Phillip Lim show below


fashion

Rebecca Taylor Fall 2009

Rebecca TaylorFor Fall 2009, Rebecca Taylor delivers a glorious interpretation of “imagery from Northern European fairytales” by utilizing lilac and minty pastels, luminescent layers of chiffon, and luxurious jewel tones.

Field flowers are translated into lively magenta dresses with ruched sleeves while the Scandinavian sea is captured with diagonal ruffle separates as well as hues of smoky quartz and navy. Metal and stud embellishments decked out everything from cashmere sweaters and coats to champagne slinky tanks. Fair isle cardigans and grey flannel brought warmth to all the metallic jacquard pieces. Large leather clutches and fur cropped jackets provided an edgy feel to this very romantic and feminine collection.

Playful and flirty elements materialized with a deep-V, silk ruffle blouse tucked into loose houndstooth trousers and a lovely wool and mohair cobweb vest shown over a swinging skirt. Leopard print also appears on slim cigarette pants and pencil skirts. Chunky Lucite necklaces added depth against delicate textures.

– Tiffany Chang

rebeccataylor2

fashion

Zac Posen Fall 2009

Zac PosenFive Steinways and draped lamé dresses decorated Zac Posen’s catwalk on Thursday night of Fashion week. His 40’s goddess glamour inspired collection held several Hollywood red carpet potentials, much like his collections as of late. Posen’s ability to create a show so A-list packed, both with models and celebrities, is uncanny. Due to the star studded event, tent security would not let anyone without a physical invitation pass, and the sign-in table mandated picture I.D. The amped up security proved to be worthy of the attendees, who got both a classical concert and a fashion show in one.

Uber-trendy young Hollywood starlets such as Rachel Bilson and Joy Bryant flocked together with fashion giants, stylist Patricia Field and Vogue’s Anna Wintour. The models glided down the runway in beautifully draped and structured ensembles, some more architectural than others, but kept lines all looking fluid. Most of the collection was shown in neutral tones with flashes of bright, shiny color and lots of cocktail jewelry. The proportions of a gray portrait collared dress were fun and reminiscent of soap opera extravagance, all shoulders and body hugging. Another number made in the gray rippled sheer had a sweet hint of bright purple underneath, visible slightly through the body and peeked out at the bubble hem.

There was one sparkly number than caught the attention of this writer in particular. When a gorgeous hybrid of gold-silver lamé with a built up collar and plunging neckline came down the catwalk, you could almost hear the stylist’s pens circling this piece on their programs. One could almost place bets on this piece ending up on one of Rachel Zoe’s celeb clientele. Mr. Zac Posen, with the looks of this production, if you design, we will come regardless of the ridiculously tight security measures.

R. Em

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
See more photos from the Zac Posen show below