Designer Vassilios Kostetsos frequently turns to his heritage for inspiration, as he did for Fall/Winter 2010. With his muse being the greek drama Antigone, Vassilios brought forth a sexually driven collection with strong undertones of love and war. Colors like bright red, bold blue, and hot fuchsia were balanced with black,white, tan and bronze. Some looks included leather coats with exaggerated shoulders, patent hot pants with thigh high snake print boots, and skin tight silhouettes complimented with soft feminine drapery. The menswear was just as statement making as the women’s wear, and further characterized with metallic facial paint, making these boys ready to battle for love. From the orgasmic opening music (literally, sounds of a woman climaxing), to the high energy models in sensual ensembles owning the catwalk, it was a passionate and seemingly suitable ending to Valentine’s Day at Bryant Park.
-Maria Giannakakis
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
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Herve Leger by Max Azria fall 2010
The Fall 2010 Herve Leger collection screamed strong feminine empowerment. This woman is a sexy super hero “confident to stand tall in the face of the future”. Much kudos to Max Azria and Lubov who once again remain true to the Leger bandage theme but still manage to reinvent it. This season the captivating second-skin dresses were laced up in an architectural bondage manner, grommeted down, and pieced together with knit and metallic mesh inserts that simulated armor. Also included this season were some form-fitting separates like streamlined pants, jackets, tops and skirts. There was definitely a sensuous yet sporty play on shape, lines, and texture. Some other details included exaggerated hips, asymmetrical necklines and whirling seams. The color palette consisted of black, white, steel grays and pale nudes offset with some pops of accent colors like pink and green. Herve Leger continues to praise the female form by wrapping and enhancing it in some chic armor.— Maria Giannakakis
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
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Twinkle by Wenlan Fall 2010
If I was lost out in the forest, I, too, would want a chunky, cream-colored knit scarf to warm my neck. And more than likely I would pair that with a beautifully shaped jacquard skinny pant with double zippers or maybe a cobweb lacy dress that hints to the trails that I have been and followed. I would perhaps take a few lucky accessories such as the Broken Thorn Necklace, Bulldog Leash bracelet or the Necklace of Cascading Tears . If I were going to encounter a witch somewhere and Hansel, my partner wanted to know where I found such rich warm knits and lovely amulets, I would cry, Twinkle by Wenlan, darlings! This season, Twinkle by Wenlan revisits the Grimm’s Fairy tale of Hansel and Gretel and imagines a line where nostalgia meets fantasy. The strength of the collection lies in the not so chunky knits, aptly named “baby chunky” because the designer plays with gauge sizes and texture, so knits can be woven from thick to see through. Stand out pieces were the cut out back knit sweater and the Lady Bovary hooded jacket that felt druid-like. Dresses were silky, structured and sheer, appearing in magenta and the basic black, which perhaps was not keeping with the forest theme, but still delicate and feminine nonetheless.—Jeanie Kwak
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
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Custo Barcelona Fall 2010
The designer’s “Hairy Metal” theme left this reviewer scratching her head a bit. As in Dokken or Whitesnake? It turns out that the “hairy” bit is really different types of shaggy fur (lining in a zig zag pattern across a wool coat, for example, or covering the shoulders like a stole). Furs were color-matched to the swirly, psychedelic graphics in the clothing which repeated itself in the men’s suits, bright leggings and short minis. The “Metal” theme refers to minerals of the earth, by utilizing colors of of bronze, steel, black gold and rust as well as aquatic colors of blues and mauve. The designer then turned the metallic volume up in a silvery, sequinned, belted coat, that despite it’s intimidating material, looked shapely and wearable. It felt a bit primordial, wild and pre-historic mixed in with a good helping of 70’s disco.
—Jeanie Kwak
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
Mik Cire by Eric Kim Fall 2010
Urban equestrian meets rock and roller for Eric Kim’s new menswear line, Mik Cire. The former CEO and designer of Monarchy impressed the crowd with his edgy yet relaxed, East coast meets West aesthetic. Models walked the runway clad in nattily fit leather motorcycle jackets, lambskin/ cashmere 3/4 length coats with asymmetrical zippers, drop crotch coated denim, cropped wool trousers and pony hair briefcases. Plaid made its way onto the fronts of coats (in a refined but punk, 90’s grunge nod), and flannel blended with cashmere and wool in vests. The result was a tough, yet elegant collection for the NYC urbanite who has a bit of the West coast, Montana range in him. Effortless and endlessly appealing. A gorgeous first for this veteran designer, who is also a father. His adorable baby son made an appearance during his bow donning (would you expect anything less?) dropped red suspenders and wool cap. A perfectly executed show and promising new collection.
—Jeanie Kwak
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn.
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