Architectural pleats and layers dominated Adam Lippes’ namesake label this season. Bold berry hues and rich burnt orange played right into the F/W season with neutral cool greys, black and charcoal. Exposed metal zippers and dark sequin effects added a clean line of rigidity to the feminine shapes in luxurious fabrics, leathers, and fur. The warmth of the collection waxed and waned as neutrals floated in between burst of traditional fall hues. Metal appliques gave a protective coat of armor and deliberate, sharp tailoring hinted at a fitted form. The use of clearly girlish touches in crinkle pleated skirts mixed deliciously with cozy thick cable knits coated in foil. The few but purposeful and beautiful prints in the collection shone from the subdued first plaids to the last abstract animals. ADAM’s Fall/Winter collection simply just gets better the more you look at it. — Rachel Rozzi
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
Designer Amy Smilovic was inspired by the photographs of Peter Beard. Her “masculine meets feminine” collection entailed draping paired with structure and rich neutral colors with contrasting brights.
Wednesday night, I made my way into Chelsea to interview designer Sally Wu and her debut line Act 1. I was a bit late since I took the F train and had to physically run across town from 6th Ave to 10th and 11th. Those are long city blocks. And in heels, no less! I finally saw the familiar Highline (dark and sleepy due to winter days) and went through the glass doors to a quiet gallery. Immediately, I was hit by walls of bodies, girls in short chiffon dresses and dark eyeliner, men in bowties and glasses. I found my photographer and he pulled me backstage. Ok, we have 5 minutes. Models peered at me from behind another room, already dressed, their clothes rustling a bit, their hair sleek in the front and teased to a nebulous ponytail in the back. Sally stood still amidst the chaos, smiling and calm. We did our interview. Her collection, which was constructed in a record two weeks (my mouth dropped open at this and then seeing her collection, I was even more amazed) has the kind of sexy, effortless appeal that nyc girls aspire to. A cream colored ruffle silk blouse was a favorite, also the knit jackets with knotted bits of tulle and the wonderous wool boucle jacket with long nubs that fell down the front. I was especially taken by her knitted wool scarves in winter white colors that fit snugly around the necks of models. Her architectural influences are evident in her cocktail dresses, streamlined, but not severe and completely wearable. The mood was serene, the crowd watchful and silent. Whispers began to flutter around: ohh, wow, that’s great, do you like that? yes, that’s sensational. I turned around and it was a beautiful elderly woman with the brightest brown eyes and her husband in a smart red sweater and bow tie. I smiled. A litle asian girl stared at a model, her mouth open, her eyes wondering. Flashbulbs went off. And then I realized that simplicity and elegance is translatable at any age, in any language. — Jeanie Kwak
The immensely immediate popularity of Prabal Gurung’s reputation proceeded him as Anna Wintour, Rachel Zoe, and Zoe Saldana adorned the outskirts of his Fall/Winter runway show this season. Needless to say, he lived up to it. His collection fared mostly on luxuriously tailored wools, silks and a drop dead gorgeous viscose gazar in stunning burnished gold, bottle green, and crimson red. His asymmetric tailoring worked well in both silks and wool, expertly shown to look color blocked with design purpose. Playful neutral fur and feather additions in dresses and jackets added a touch of old world glamor to the modernity of silhouette and line while a sprinkling of swarovski shot in a bit of glam. A bold black and crimson hooded drop-shouldered cape in a luxe double faced wool stole the show until a red carpet worthy crimson strapless gown closed down the catwalk to thunderous applause (Take note Rachel Zoe!). It seems Mr. Gurung still has a devotedly steady following. A following which is completely and utterly deserved.— Rachel Rozzi