You know– the hems have little silver chains hanging off of them, said the photographer, who had gone backstage to take some photos. Oh, that’s delicious, I said. We were milling about the halls of Milk Studios in Chelsea and we had just witnessed Rad Hourani’s Spring 2010 line. After a week full of light ruffles & floaty gowns in pastel colors and coral hues, the dark, minimalist vision that greeted us down the white-washed runway was a welcome change. Here was the stripped down, sleek aggressiveness that I equate with fashion militia—you know those kids- they club, they ride the subways, they cluster in dark little herds and host late night fetes in hotel rooms.
Anyway, it was here: forget the fashionista. There’s a dark child that has arrived and it is the fashion militia. And Rad is leading the pack. He is a young designer who has been compared to Helmut Lang and Ann Demeulmeester. He has had no formal design training, which is surprising. He worked mostly as a stylist and videographer. In past interviews, he has said he designs clothes that he would like to wear himself and credits his years as a stylist as key to his construction of clothing.
And what a collection it is: The hardware was awe-inspiring. The leggings were exceptional. Sleek & slitted like gills and then dark layers, almost origami-like.
Skinny stovepipe pants were laced up horizontally with chains, the motorcycle vests had straps and dripping silver, sheaths were stark white or stark black with dark strappy bustles attached to the back. Models were pale white, hair slicked back in severe pony tails. Cult followers love his urban androgyny. I never picked up the sense that he was playing with gender issues; it felt more like he was grappling with fashion rules. It’s supposed to be a spring show—and while I didn’t anticipate gowns—I certainly did not expect cut up leather, white jeans with dripping silver details and elastic straps. It’s sort of the raw energy of punk, mixed with an Asian refined elegance. That’s about as close to how I can describe it. Whatever it is, I hope he continues exploring his own aesthetic.
– Jeanie Kwak
Photos by Nari Kim
One thing I love about a young designer is a certain joie de vivre, which in my mind equates with youthful vigor, fantasy and imagination. Escapism, too, much needed when times are somber, no? Christian Siriano presented a show nothing short of what he is best at: the dramatic gesture. But sophisticated, nonetheless, and mature and assured. Sure, I’m a fan. I love the kid. I see him from time to time around Williamsburg with his flip hair and glasses looking like your everyday hipster slash pixie. Who knew he could turn out a collection so frothy with silk chiffon drapery, beautiful organza bell sleeve blouses with ruffled fronts in chiffon? His collection, according to his designer’s statement, is inspired by luxe Mediterranean travel. He utilizes rich jewel colors of fuchsia, blue, and orange to evoke a lush coastal sunset. The fabric print/pattern that he uses in his fitted funnel neck dresses and silk chiffon layered dresses are actual aerial photographs of the Italian coast line that has been flipped, modified, repeated and saturated with Oceanic colors. Stunning. Three looks that made me take notice were the daring silk knit body suit (so unforgiving! Leaves nothing to the imagination!) in an oceanic/volcanic print, and the last two gowns in the show, which created a ripple of applause: The Chiffon and tulle layered ombre gown in a beautiful cascading blush and the jaw dropping strapless satin faced organza draped flounce gown, which looked frothy, like soft egg white peaks. Amazing. It’s what a girl dreams of wearing. I mean, if you so happen to vacation on lush Italian coasts. Who knew a tiny kid like that could dream it up? 
An “unabashedly pretty and feminine” siren takes center stage for Tibi’s Spring 2010 collection. Draped bias slip dresses in silk and chiffon layers provided the canvas for this lush presentation. “Great Expectations” opened the show, solid white cascading down the runway with a grand beaded blossom. A strappy, frothy gown sported a suede fleur appliqué down one shoulder. The two-tone ruffled sheath dress takes a bold step forward. This evening, Fern Gully came to life in a plethora of floral and foliage motifs.
Sara Shepherd envisioned a feminine and flirty Spring/Summer 2010. The colors were very romantic as were the fabrics. Pink, creamy beige, light grey and shimmery metallics highlighted the silk charmeuse, satin, cashmere and gauzy cotton. There was a pop of color in some fabulous red tops. Some pieces, like a sleek satin pant in which the crinkle ombred down added a touch of sassyness. Also, jackets that were structured and tailored with great detail were juxtaposed with a feminine twist in the soft ruffles. Innovative cutting techniques indicative of her British training were showcased in the swirly seams of another skinny pant. Tops and dresses were floaty and asymmetrical. Sara’s creative style made for a unique, sophisticated collection.