Tag Archives: runway

Betsey Johnson

September 30, 2008 Glossy

Betsey Johnson has been a main stay in the retail and fashion world for over 40 years. Her whimsical, flirty, punk rock designs stand as a reminder to the fashion world that fashion can be fun. Betsey is now a proud grandmother for the second time and the new addition to her family obviously influenced her Spring Collection. The extremely theatrical show had three distinct groupings starting with floral maxi dresses and jumpers that if produced in miniature would be appropriate for a toddler. The somewhat silly frocks were worn by models with wigs of purple, pink and white cut blunt and short. Some girls even sucked on lollipops as they strutted down the runway to apropos songs such as “Be my Baby,” “Candy Girl,” and “Mr. Sandman.”
For the second act an actor clad as a pirate made mischief on the runway to the song “Wild Thing.” This was soon followed by mini dresses over striped or skeleton printed leggings, hot pants and bathing suits all influenced by the pirate theme. Next came signature Betsey pieces- floral prints in bright neon colors such as green, pink and blue. Good girls gone bad rounded out the theatrical show: models in white sheer petticoat dresses, hands cuffed behind their backs. Betsey took her customary cartwheel down the runway in a Peter Pan inspired green sequined dress and attendants left the show in high spirits.
– Lyndsay Skeegan

Photos by Mercedes Benz fashion Week

fashion

Return of The King

September 21, 2008 Glossy

Chado Raplh Rucci SPring 2009 — Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2009

CHADO- He is back and in fighting form- on Friday night Ralph Rucci closed New York Fashion Week with all the fanfare and warm embrace of the returned prodigal son. Rucci is a prodigious talent and while he is often lost in the minutiae of the New York fashion set, his work stands as a testament to his great talent. As the world of haute couture skirts dangerously close to oblivion it is important that we uphold one of our most brilliant haute courtiers.

I must admit that I am partially biased; I have long been a Rucci enthusiast. For Spring ’09 Rucci sent out a strong line up of clothing suitable for every occasion- from smart day wear to gripping evening gowns. The couturier crystallized those hallmark Ruccisms and move them into a more approachable direction. He showed continued mastery over the art of construction.

Chado is a meditation on form, line and structure. Each season many designers attempt to redesign the wheel, but Rucci instead continues an exploration of his signature shapes enlisting new applications and techniques. Bold shoulders seemed particularly new for the designer who is known for a more gentle approach towards the shoulder and décolleté. He used various types of artistic fringe to great affect, inciting riotous applause as models turned on the runway to reveal the insets of fringe. Illusion with geometric cut outs were a strong motif in this season’s line up. The cutouts appeared on a tulle coat over an A-line dress and on a black sheer top paired with slouchy black satin trousers. Other moments of decadent indulgence included the gowns with Rothko inspired paielletes or the slinky floor length sequins skirt with sheer top and matching jacket.

Spring 09 marked a departure for Rucci who seemed to be courting a younger generation of fashion intellectuals. Though at moments the collection showed the wavering uncertainty of a babe horse gaining her sea legs, Rucci has the talent to address a younger audience and his Spring collection suggests the beginning this new courtship. The collection was proliferated with a plethora of coquettish dresses that remain true to the spirit of Chado. Rucci was careful to remain mindful of his faithful followers offering intriguing pant suits with jackets of rounded shoulders with detailing on tulle or crepe. This collection was an exercise in restrains and what I expect will be the blossoming of a new point of view at the house of Chado.

Welcome back Ralph!

A. Coelho

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

fashion

Vicente Villarin Spring 2009

September 11, 2008 Glossy

Vicente Villarin made its debut runway presentation today at the House of Bumble. For Spring 2009, Designer Joanne Cordero Reyes offered a collection of ethereal dresses, aptly named “Light Against Sky”.

It was a cool combination of chiffon and rock as undulating ruffles and pleats carried its own beat. Cathedral elements such as vivid stained glass windows and marble cream pillars were transformed into feminine silhouettes. Reyes looked to bring “pure, modern elegance” by using romantic textures and architectural influences. Linen/cotton jackets featuring charming shoulder details brought flying buttresses to mind while statuesque forms illuminated an airy and soft serenity. My favorite was a gown with appliqué made to look like rose glass shards sprinkling over the landscape of the fabric. Details were not to be overlooked, with silver zippers and gold accented shoes as finishing touches.

I am truly excited to discover another contemporary Asian designer. Reyes is Filipino American and takes her greatest inspiration from her grandfather, Vicente Villarin Cordero, who was a composer. Reyes’ highly flirty, but incredibly sophisticated line is definitely something to include in your closet and look out for on red carpets!

– Tiffany Chang

fashion

Mara Hoffman Spring 2009

September 11, 2008 Glossy

For Spring 2009, Mara Hoffman presented a collection suitable for an exotic, tropical getaway. A bevy of geometric prints and intricate floral details on one-shoulder sheaths and tunics looked refreshing, especially when paired with tailored pieces. Airy cotton and linen paired well with leather accessories and canvas trenchcoats. Bandeau tops and tapered shorts were staples as well as the “Mara Tote”, a hot travel accessory and chic vest all in one!

Resort-fabulous pieces include a white babydoll, absolutely darling with frog clasps under an embroidered, kimono-sleeved robe. A halter swimsuit featuring black and yellow henna designs and the ornate blue and orange sari-wrapped bikini were marvelous.

– Tiffany Chang

fashion

The Architect of Fashion Goes for a Dip

September 11, 2008 Glossy

Yeohlee – In a season where craftsmanship is becoming a major story- Yeohlee Teng stands a pillar and reminder that making beautiful clothes is an art form.

For Spring Yeohlee Teng offered a meditation on the globule shape of jellyfish juxtaposed with a surprisingly new take on the geometric rigidity of cubes and parabola shapes. The result- a collection that felt organic and ethereal but grounded.

Well known for her structured clothing this collection felt decidedly softer and I dare say, even feminine. The Yeohlee aesthetic is rooted in clean, strong linear lines and the exploration of form and structure, so this season’s softer direction felt especially fresh.
Popular to a sect of fashion intellectuals who count on her each season to provide, what have become Yeohlee staples- useful but intriguing separate including- trousers, capelets, and hooded coats. This collection featured jumpers paired with parka like jackets that looked modern and actually very wearable. Yeohlee is every bit a craftsperson and each season she takes on a new technique, this season it appeared to be shirring and tucking. I was particular fascinated by what Teng referred to as shirring- essential a bias torque ruching that would diagonally bisect blouses, dresses and skirts. Teng echoed the whimsical shapes of jellyfish with an ingenuity that is true of only a well seasoned architect. This technique of shirring produced the billowy look that is characteristic of floating jellyfish. Instead of collars, Teng framed the face with this amorphous shape on blouses and light weight jackets. This softer incarnation of the Yeohlee look was a masterful rendition of deductions and redirection.

The collection was rendered in a soothing palette and interesting fabrics. The combination of sheer or translucent jerseys mixed with starchy fabrics lent a sensual and tactile element to collection. For Spring ’09 Teng’s play on sheer and opaque fabric added an intriguing tension to the collection. Sheer blouses with linen skirts were the perfect balance of languid and rigid. Always a purest when it comes to selecting her color palette for spring, Yeohlee constrained her color story to soft sand tones highlighted with a bold coral underlined with lots of white.

For Spring ’09 Yeohlee invites us to take a dip with her and explore the weightless beauty of deep waters and easy dressing. True to her roots but reaching for the unknown this collection was an underwater dream. Teng stands a steady presence in the roaring sea of fashion trends and comings and goings- her work always retains a standard of quality and beauty that uplifts and moves the industry forward.