At Venexiana the main attraction was stunning floor length ballgowns that where tiered, pleated, fishtailed, and adorned with appliques, crystals and big satin bows. The color palette was very deep and saturated, enhanced with bold statement jewelry. Designer Kati Stern played with volumes, high necklines, backless pieces and different patterns that evoked an old Hollywood glamour feel. — Maria Giannakakis
Photos By Stevyn Llewellyn
For Fall/Winter 2010, Yigal Azrouel was all about architectural tailoring that blurred the fine line between his menswear and womanswear. There was much attention to details like leather inserts and sexy back cutouts. The color story consisted of black, brown, gray, cream and flashes of color shown in a bright red coat and a magenta evening dress. Some key pieces were leather jackets, tubular knits, patchwork sweaters and strong sleek suits.— Maria Giannakakis
Photos by Nari Kim
Architectural pleats and layers dominated Adam Lippes’ namesake label this season. Bold berry hues and rich burnt orange played right into the F/W season with neutral cool greys, black and charcoal. Exposed metal zippers and dark sequin effects added a clean line of rigidity to the feminine shapes in luxurious fabrics, leathers, and fur. The warmth of the collection waxed and waned as neutrals floated in between burst of traditional fall hues. Metal appliques gave a protective coat of armor and deliberate, sharp tailoring hinted at a fitted form. The use of clearly girlish touches in crinkle pleated skirts mixed deliciously with cozy thick cable knits coated in foil. The few but purposeful and beautiful prints in the collection shone from the subdued first plaids to the last abstract animals. ADAM’s Fall/Winter collection simply just gets better the more you look at it. — Rachel Rozzi
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
Six of the best and brightest students at the Academy of Art University debuted their collection at the tents at Bryant Park on Saturday, February 13th. The collections are representative of 4 of the school’s programs: Fashion, Knitwear, Technical and Textile Design. I always look forward to this show, if only to take a peek at what young designers are thinking about, if they’re questioning or reacting to the current climate of Fashion or if their approach is more interior. More often than not, their ideas are always conceptually rich, drawing from models of nature, or the history of photography or painting or architecture. Sometimes, it is the personal telling of someone’s memory or past. It is always exciting to see how they will translate it into clothing, and being that Fall is always big on knits, I was ready for some textural surprises. Knits in beautifully geometric shapes sprouted cone-like off of shoulders in Steven Oo’s merino wool collection, inspired by the Architecture of Massimiliano Fuksas. Hyo Sun An created spaghetti like strings hanging riotously off of shoulders on strong silhouettes which quite easily felt sci-fi and kind of streetwise/rock and roll. The romantic, prairie like creations of Naomi Sutton was my own personal favorite. It felt both dark and naieve, almost Amish, with long white cotton dresses that resembled undergarments taking on an American goth feel. Sabah Mansoor nestled jewel shaped crystals in her crocheted knits which had an interesting stars in the night sky effect. She also employed a Japanese technique of dying which consisted of creating a pattern by binding, stitching, folding and twisting fabric. Marina Solomatnikova’s collection was elegant, feminine and had a strong art-deco feel, with high silk blouses peeking out of structured sueded jackets. Bethany Meuleners truly employed the layering technique in her deep plunging gowns, mixing sheer chiffon over wool and lace and letting them as she states,”land off kilter.” A promising show for 6 young designers to watch.
—Jeanie Kwak
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
Urban equestrian meets rock and roller for Eric Kim’s new menswear line, Mik Cire. The former CEO and designer of Monarchy impressed the crowd with his edgy yet relaxed, East coast meets West aesthetic. Models walked the runway clad in nattily fit leather motorcycle jackets, lambskin/ cashmere 3/4 length coats with asymmetrical zippers, drop crotch coated denim, cropped wool trousers and pony hair briefcases. Plaid made its way onto the fronts of coats (in a refined but punk, 90’s grunge nod), and flannel blended with cashmere and wool in vests. The result was a tough, yet elegant collection for the NYC urbanite who has a bit of the West coast, Montana range in him. Effortless and endlessly appealing. A gorgeous first for this veteran designer, who is also a father. His adorable baby son made an appearance during his bow donning (would you expect anything less?) dropped red suspenders and wool cap. A perfectly executed show and promising new collection.
—Jeanie Kwak
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn.
[svgallery name=”mik_cire_fall2010″]