Architectural pleats and layers dominated Adam Lippes’ namesake label this season. Bold berry hues and rich burnt orange played right into the F/W season with neutral cool greys, black and charcoal. Exposed metal zippers and dark sequin effects added a clean line of rigidity to the feminine shapes in luxurious fabrics, leathers, and fur. The warmth of the collection waxed and waned as neutrals floated in between burst of traditional fall hues. Metal appliques gave a protective coat of armor and deliberate, sharp tailoring hinted at a fitted form. The use of clearly girlish touches in crinkle pleated skirts mixed deliciously with cozy thick cable knits coated in foil. The few but purposeful and beautiful prints in the collection shone from the subdued first plaids to the last abstract animals. ADAM’s Fall/Winter collection simply just gets better the more you look at it. — Rachel Rozzi
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
Wednesday night, I made my way into Chelsea to interview designer Sally Wu and her debut line Act 1. I was a bit late since I took the F train and had to physically run across town from 6th Ave to 10th and 11th. Those are long city blocks. And in heels, no less! I finally saw the familiar Highline (dark and sleepy due to winter days) and went through the glass doors to a quiet gallery. Immediately, I was hit by walls of bodies, girls in short chiffon dresses and dark eyeliner, men in bowties and glasses. I found my photographer and he pulled me backstage. Ok, we have 5 minutes. Models peered at me from behind another room, already dressed, their clothes rustling a bit, their hair sleek in the front and teased to a nebulous ponytail in the back. Sally stood still amidst the chaos, smiling and calm. We did our interview. Her collection, which was constructed in a record two weeks (my mouth dropped open at this and then seeing her collection, I was even more amazed) has the kind of sexy, effortless appeal that nyc girls aspire to. A cream colored ruffle silk blouse was a favorite, also the knit jackets with knotted bits of tulle and the wonderous wool boucle jacket with long nubs that fell down the front. I was especially taken by her knitted wool scarves in winter white colors that fit snugly around the necks of models. Her architectural influences are evident in her cocktail dresses, streamlined, but not severe and completely wearable. The mood was serene, the crowd watchful and silent. Whispers began to flutter around: ohh, wow, that’s great, do you like that? yes, that’s sensational. I turned around and it was a beautiful elderly woman with the brightest brown eyes and her husband in a smart red sweater and bow tie. I smiled. A litle asian girl stared at a model, her mouth open, her eyes wondering. Flashbulbs went off. And then I realized that simplicity and elegance is translatable at any age, in any language. — Jeanie Kwak
For Fall/Winter 2010, BCBGMAXAZRIA presented a sophisticated and feminine collection. Neutral tones were the dominating color in this season’s palette. Colorblocked with vibrant touches of yellow and blue, together with classic shades of black, grey and navy, they created clean geometric silhouettes. Leather piping and trimming details added to the geometric aesthetic. Prints were simple and graphic inspired in muted colors. Embellishments were also minimal. Some sequins and studs appeared to be painted on in brush strokes onto cropped tops and dresses. The main theme was the asymmetrical draping of flowing silk dresses and tops which were then layered and/or belted in almost every look. This collection is for a modern urban woman with a refined yet effortless style.
