Tag Archives: New York Fashion Week

This Day/Arise Fashion Show

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Photo by Sandra Rosales

This Day/Arise Magazine featured four designers in their African Fashion Collective 2009 show in the Bryant Park tents. Tyson Beckford, Alex Wek, and many other African-American super models walked the runway.  Xuly.Bët, Funkin’ Fashion Factory was first up in the evening’s lineup. The models proudly strutted down the runway in form fitting sportswear constructed from corduroy, velour, denim, and pleather.  A patent-leather head to toe look and denim jumpsuits rounded out the ensemble.  The androgynous face of Grace Jones stretching and morphing on a screen behind the models was the real crowd pleaser of this portion of the show.

The second designer, Tiffany Amber, followed with pretty shantung dresses edged with intricate beading. Her attention to detail was evident in the colorful flower embroidery and wooden beadwork of her garments. Stoned Cherrie’s collection consisted of swing jackets and high-waisted cigarette pants, pretty cap sleeve dresses and blouson-sleeved shirts. The teardrop cut outs rimming the neckline of a dress had images of little purple women dancing inside- a beautiful, intricate detail. Momo’s collection was composed of animal printed silk knits and cashmeres which would be apropos in Palm Beach. The flapper-style hats provided a nice cohesive element to her line-up.

The show was extremely entertaining and festive and the exuberant crowd was one of the most supportive audiences I’ve ever encountered at a runway show. The presentation closed with looks from all four designers along with long white cotton dresses printed with President Obama’s likeness, which made for a perfect ending to an optimistic, upbeat show.

– Lyndsay Skeegan

Photos By Sandra Rosales



Ports 1961 Fall 2009

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Ports 1961- For Fall ‘09 Tia Cibani transports us to India, in a collection that was imbued with all the visual tactility that is worthy of the designer’s inspiration. The charm and resonance of Cibani’s work lies in her courageous virtuosity- she always seems to be designing with more than just sales numbers in mind. One can always be assured that ‘love it‘or ‘hate it’ Cibani’s work will emote some internal reaction. True to form she always sets the stage, this season with the music of an Indian marching band that beckoned the crowd on what would be an indulgent expedition of texture, color and line.

The show opened with a sand colored, Angharkha coat with an intriguing offset neckline highlighted by a series of ruby colored embellishments. Cibani shows a talent for creating feminine coats, this season they came in the form of frock styled shapes that accentuated the waist and then flared out. According to the program notes the emphasis was to mimic the ideal female form. Amid the line up of coats streamed forth all sorts of variations of Indian garb from cropped jackets to salwar trousers to dohoti skirts. Through strategically layering garments Cibani was able to create interesting negative spaces or peak holes that added a sensual aspect to the collection. While not altogether realistic for the average woman the collection did give way to some graceful looks- like the Kohl Kalidar coat or the moonstone mousseline pleated coat with metalline pleated dress.

As one might expect of a collection inspired by India, the fabrics were brilliantly textural – ranging from lames, to hand pleated velvets, mulmull cottons and amazing jacquards. The colorful palette was equally inviting and in keeping with the warmth and festive mood of the collection.

Cibani was intent on preparing us for an appearance before the Empress Nur Jahan or perhaps she is simply banking on more jubilant times ahead. Whatever her reasoning the designer presented a glistening collection that was inspired by the richness of the Indian culture. While visually captivating upon reflection and study I wondered how some of these inspired looks would translate to real life.

In a season where many designers seem timid about taking chances I suppose Cibani is deserving of some degree of note for her moxy. Visually the collection had all the things that keep you reeling – rich in texture, color and shape but it just seemed too extreme…even for this Cibani fan.

-A. Coelho
Photos © Stevyn Llewellyn 2009. See more photos from the show below.
To see a slideshow of the entire collection, please click here.


Carlos Miele Fall 2009

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Carlos Miele – In a season of uncertainty designers are playing to their strengths, for Miele that means evening wear. This season Miele offered up what he does best- slinky evening gowns and pretty cocktail dresses. Relying on charmeuse, Miele created a series of poured on gowns with a decidedly darker edge for a designer who generally favors feminine pretty.

There were intriguing moments but on a whole, the collection felt a little disjointed and fell short of a cohesive point of view.

– A Coelho

Photos © Stevyn Llewellyn 2009.

To see the entire collection in a slideshow, click here.


Yeohlee Fall 2009

yeohlee1Yeohlee- In a tight line up of 23 looks Yeohlee Teng presented her answer to recession dressing. The focused collection was true to the spirit of Yeohlee: structured, wearable clothing that relies on cut and construction in lieu of ornamentation and fluff. It should be noted, this is what Teng does best- great coats and jackets with a minimalist luxe that feel timeless. In the way of suiting the collection offered a clear message: a gentle boot leg pant with a long jack with ample lapels. Teng posed the body suit as this season’s staple, showing it in both black and a metallic Lurex. The body suit served as a building block for the designer staple tunics and poncho-esque pieces. Amid the proliferation of charcoal and black there was a glint of hope (perhaps a node to brighter time ahead) in the way of metallic lurex jersey used to great affect for easy cocktail wear. The shinning line-up included a blouson sleeved-tent dress, an asymmetrical hem dress and a body suit with matching draped top.

This season Teng offered a series of desirable yet practical options for real life.

– A Coelho
Photos © Stevyn Llewellyn 2009. See more photos of the show below.
To see a slideshow of the complete Yeohlee collection, please click here.

Watch the video below:



Akiko Ogawa Fall 2009

akiko1Akiko Ogawa-This mid week show offered much of what appears to be a la mode in New York: asymmetrical structured jackets (in this case juxtaposed with draped skirts of the sarong sort). Akiko Ogawa presented an edgy take on Fall favoring fitted jackets with bold shapes and tailoring coupled with nubby sweaters and lean trousers. The collection reflected a sleeker take for the designer who in earlier seasons displayed a penchant for feminine overtures.

The most noteworthy element of the collection was the tension Ogawa was able to create both in fabric combinations as well as in combining structured jackets with delicately draped pieces. She paired nubby cardigans, and sweaters with lean trousers.  The overall look was youthful but edgy. The show opened with a nubby cardigan in a tealy blue belted and paired with sarong style skirt.  Ogawa demonstrated a flare for construction creating asymmetrical jackets that while daring retained a figure flattering shape. Ogawa took a stab at the ever so tricky jauper showing it in wool paired with a matching bolero style jacket in an admiral navy. Of the many jackets shown a favorite was a winter white version with large lapels.

The palette further reinforced Ogawa’s moody fall musing; constrained to a moody range of navy and black offset by ivory, a rose quartz tone and an ombre that slipped between the three. While ombres were all the rage just last Fall Ogawa’s version seemed worthy of note, perhaps because of the note of softness it added to the otherwise aggressively shaped jackets.

In moments the show became repetitive but the take away collection anecdote was lean and but not mean. In a season of tepid shows, Ogawa presented a collection with a spirited point of view that was worthy of consideration. Ogawa remains a talent to watch. Her command of balance and tension is worth keeping an eye on.

-A Coelho
Photos © Stevyn Llewellyn 2009.
View a slideshow of the entire Akiko Ogawa collection, below.

See the end of the show below:

See still photos from the show below.