Capturing the zeitgeist of the Bauhaus movement and the 1924 Olympics, Andrew Buckler’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection embodied robust free-spiritedness and a relaxed kind of ease and confidence. Some articles of note: Tshirts were long, soft and sheer, worn under structured day linen jackets. Cardigans bore thin, collegiate lines that ran vertically down the shoulder and felt like a subtle nod to prep-school yore. “Droopy longs” melange pants looked just right with crisp white button downs. An interesting/surprising plaid jumper was entirely at home paired with a dark jacket. I was happy to see the classic trench coat worn with a bit of color (red jeans!) and was giddy over the appearance of a backpack which felt fun and cheeky over a pale blue linen suit. This kind of dressing has a kind of old world romanticism/optimism that feels Gatsby-esque; it is a dressing down that is a form of dressing up. Looking to the past to reboot our sartorial ways can prove to be elegant, timely and refreshing, as evident in this collection.
– Jeanie Kwak
Buckler Spring 2011?
I love Fall clothing, but they tend to lack the vibrancy and color prevalent on the Spring runways. Although neutrals are big this Fall/Winter 2010, I was pleased to see rich jewel tones and bright prints in Thuy’s show. And speaking of jewels, the collaboration with Swarovski produced unique pieces like a gold shift dress armor plated with bronze and metallic pyramids, and a swingy grey wool dress with a cleverly designed paisley-style print detailed entirely out of crystals.