The infamous Marquis De Sade once said, “The pleasure of the senses is always regulated in accordance with the imagination. Man can aspire to felicity only by serving all the whims of his imagination.” This quote feels apt when looking at the creations of Elisa Palomino. You can feel the workings of a rich and thoughtful imagination at play; indeed just looking at her inspiration boards of jazz age flapper girls and Japanese geishas, you get the sense that referring to the past is not merely a look back, but a translation, an imagined interpretation of what she finds most alluring. Palomino’s collection is rich in silks, embroidery and beading. Playful quirks such as the clustered, tiny flower shift dress feel both fantastic and deeply romantic. It is the kind of boudoir that blooms with flushed rosy hues, rose talc, shingled hair and stockings. For her debut fall collection, models appeared with streaks of pink along their cheekbones, hair in a nebulous bun and larger than life flowers nestled in their hair. Performer Shien Lee trilled in the background, setting the tone for far off places. Her puffer jackets are surprising– cut in velvet opera cape shapes–and they hug the form like a luxe shawl. And listening to her speak, you sense the otherworldly at play, which she fully embraces. It is something that the fashion world needs a bit more of– forget basics and practicality. It is wonderful to succumb to a vision. And wouldn’t it be lovely, to have a little bit of the imaginative world in your closet?
— Jeanie Kwak
Visit Elisa Palomino’s website here.
View the video of the event below.
Exclusive interview with Elisa Palomino below, discussing her inspiration for her fall 2010 collection, the design process, and gives details about each garment featured in the show.
Images and videos by Stevyn Llewellyn
There’s been a lot of talk about Joseph Altuzarra lately. New Yorkers love him and for good reason. His creations feel elegant, sophisticated and timeless without the fuss. The Parisian born art history major culled design experience by working with Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler and Givenchy. Sounds like a veteran, yes? And he designs like a dream. The black leather stitched dresses made me sit up straight in my seat, at full attention, with my neck craned forward. Paired with tall black pumps and thick ankle straps, the ensemble exuded strong, confident sensuality. Luxurious black goat fur trailed down the front panels of a coat with leather stitched sleeves. Fitted pencil skirts bore strapping belt details. And then a daring red velvet tuxedo dress appeared, all sleek lines, feeling unrelentingly sophisticated. Have I seen this before, I kept thinking, short velvet dresses abounded in the 90’s and the sudden appearance of it felt vaguely familiar and reaffirming in some way. It was as if a velvet red dress is just what I needed and I didn’t know it. And isn’t that the mark of a great designer? When they show you something you never thought you wanted and then suddenly it is exactly what you were missing?
Siki Im has a quiet, minimalist aesthetic that translates well for menswear. Working mainly in colors of black and white, his shirts looked crisp next to cropped black turtleneck sweaters and wide trousers and skirts. Slippers were discreetly worn and derbys perched nonchalantly on the heads of models. A surprising twist was the appearance of kimono like trench coats (with hoods!), that gathered in the back in small, dark folds. I felt a keen appreciation for his melding of traditional Japanese and western influences and how he did not shy away from
Prabal Gurung is another designer that has been getting a lot of attention. His strength lies in his distinct, precise tailoring and wonderful two or three tone color blocks that can appear in a sharp sheath or long camel coat. A beautiful ostrich feather dress with swarovski crystals lent a softer touch to the line and the oxidized silver and black stretch lace dress felt current and modern. The attention is well deserved and one can already see a signature style emerging.
An interesting category this year was for accessories. And the New York label Prova was recognized. Former Vogue Fashion writer now turned jewelry/accessories designer continues with the animal trend, printing silk scarves with leopards and fringing them with glass beads. It was a bit hard to see the scarves or the jewelry as they went down the runway, but the look seemed to be one of luxe safari.
Arise Magazine showcased 3 notable South African Designers for it’s Fall 2010 launch at the tents: Black Coffee, Nigeria’s Deola Sagoe and Tanzania’s Loin Cloth & Ashes.
If I was lost out in the forest, I, too, would want a chunky, cream-colored knit scarf to warm my neck. And more than likely I would pair that with a beautifully shaped jacquard skinny pant with double zippers or maybe a cobweb lacy dress that hints to the trails that I have been and followed. I would perhaps take a few lucky accessories such as the Broken Thorn Necklace, Bulldog Leash bracelet or the Necklace of Cascading Tears . If I were going to encounter a witch somewhere and Hansel, my partner wanted to know where I found such rich warm knits and lovely amulets, I would cry, Twinkle by Wenlan, darlings! This season, Twinkle by Wenlan revisits the Grimm’s Fairy tale of Hansel and Gretel and imagines a line where nostalgia meets fantasy. The strength of the collection lies in the not so chunky knits, aptly named “baby chunky” because the designer plays with gauge sizes and texture, so knits can be woven from thick to see through. Stand out pieces were the cut out back knit sweater and the Lady Bovary hooded jacket that felt druid-like. Dresses were silky, structured and sheer, appearing in magenta and the basic black, which perhaps was not keeping with the forest theme, but still delicate and feminine nonetheless.—Jeanie Kwak