Fashion Week Tweets from our writer, Jeanie Kwak.
Photo by Stevyn Llewellyn
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Nicholas K Fall 2011
Perhaps it’s the 90’s revivalist in me that keeps waxing nostalgic, but did I spot some flannel shirts tied around the waists of the Nicholas K models during their Fall 2011 show? A quick check-in with the photos and sure enough, there it was: the waist-tie. And this reviewer couldn’t be more excited. I love when a designer goes the grunge route and the brother duo execute it with just the right amount of finesse to keep the dark, edgy and rebellious spirit alive. This is moody dress. This is 90’s romanticism with a bit of Victorian flare and maybe rounded out with a lumberjack sensibility. The show’s mainstay was suede patch leggings, sometimes fitted with banded stripes or worn loose and easy in surprising fabrics like crushed velvet. The designer duo did not shy away from colors: emerald green and velvet black leggings dominated the first few looks and were paired with lace up creepers re-designed as a hunter boot! Also present were the familiar plaid shirts but wrapped in softer, more feminine silhouettes while the color palette turned to cooler stone and olive tones. Classic items such as belted parkas, trench coats and leather zip ups with fur trim topped the layered looks that felt both nostalgic and current with a fresh, urban reinterpretation of my most favorite era.
—Jeanie Kwak
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
Levi’s Spring 2011 Preview
The good folks at Levi’s have been busy at their new digs on 18 Wooster Street. Home to their well publicized vintage photo workshop (where one can borrow a vintage camera for a day of photos) the vast, airy space has been a hub for a multitude of events. This past Thursday was the Spring 2011 preview which debuted looks from their Water<Less collection. This is denim with a green message. It is made with considerably less water than the usual finishing process, which proves that you don’t have to sacrifice style for the sake of sustainability. The looks were tried and true Americana, cropped denim and bandanas with a kind of Easy Rider 60’s feel. Later in the evening, the models stepped down from the white platforms and the space became a stage for the southern band The Duke Spirit, who played a rousing set of gritty and soulful rock n roll.
– Jeanie Kwak
photo credit: Phillip Angert
Night of Fashion: Then and Now
The Young Associates of China Institute, a newly organized network of young Chinese students and professionals hosted a night of emerging new talent for their event “Night Of Fashion: Then And Now” last Wednesday at the Chelsea Cue Art Foundation. The artists represented were: Ann Yee, Arbitage, Cody Sai, Janet Zheng and Ken + Dana. The show began with a look back at the history of traditional Chinese costume, from the Zhou Dynasty (1046 – 256 VC) to the Early Republic (1900 – 1912) to the present day. Elaborate headdresses, wide sleeves and opulent gowns in brilliant jewel colors of red and gold reflected a time when government officials were recognized by the width of their belt or Manchurian princesses by the cut of their box-like dresses and head decoration. Fast forward to today, and we’re offered a glimpse into the collections of 5 young Chinese-American designers, each showing about 6 looks that was representative of their line. First up was Cody Sai, a graduate from Pratt. Mr. Sai focused mainly on classic looks of nude, black and white dresses, pleated skirts and asymmetrical cuts. Designer Janet Zheng introduced us to her menswear line, clearly ready for winter with slouchy trousers, trench coats and warm knits. Arbitage is the menswear label of Alan Chan and Manoj Dadlani, which specializes in the perfectly fited dress shirt and already has a following at Fred Segal, Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue. Ken + Dana are a jewelry designing duo that specialize in body decoration and unconventional ways to wear them. Their aesthetic has regional roots in Maine, Hong Kong and Brooklyn. A designer of note was Ann Yee – we immediately took to the elegant grey silky jumpsuit with small buttons on the back and front as well as the double paneled pink and khaki blouse worn with linen pants. Both covetable items. In a wonderful play of texture, she draped a braided knit scarf across a white blouse which looked both haphazard and deliberate. The effect made the accessory seem a part of the blouse, as if woven in. The contrast was unusual.
The night ended with cocktails and mingling and voiced congratulations. We hope to see more of this newly formed association that is committed to the young designers in the Asian community.
—Jeanie Kwak
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
See images from the event below.
Trias Spring 2011
The concept behind the Trias Spring 2011 collection was an engaging one — one that had us wondering in what manner the designer Joaquin Trias would execute. The presentation, called “Seized Movement” was “the study of the impact of air against the body and its dynamic effect on fabric.” We immediately thought of voluminous skirts and billowy air inside the minimal designs he is known for. What we saw, however, were carefully cut and crafted designs in mainly monochrome colors of Naranja, Pomelo, Rojo, Fresòn, Oxido, Tierra and Cafè (translations: warm orange, cool whites, reds, brown) . There was structure and restraint in his designs and whatever volume he hoped to express was subtle, almost invisible. It could be seen in the upward pleat of a one shoulder taffeta dress — a visible, earlike fold, or the gathered pucker of a satiny cigarette pant. His strength is in the streamlined, but with that there is a caveat– with so light of a touch there is the danger of it being erased altogether. We can sense the designer’s expression, but we would like for his lovely statement to be a bit louder, a bit bolder for us to appreciate.
—Jeanie Kwak
Photos and video by Stevyn Llewellyn
View images of the complete collection below.
