The designer’s “Hairy Metal” theme left this reviewer scratching her head a bit. As in Dokken or Whitesnake? It turns out that the “hairy” bit is really different types of shaggy fur (lining in a zig zag pattern across a wool coat, for example, or covering the shoulders like a stole). Furs were color-matched to the swirly, psychedelic graphics in the clothing which repeated itself in the men’s suits, bright leggings and short minis. The “Metal” theme refers to minerals of the earth, by utilizing colors of of bronze, steel, black gold and rust as well as aquatic colors of blues and mauve. The designer then turned the metallic volume up in a silvery, sequinned, belted coat, that despite it’s intimidating material, looked shapely and wearable. It felt a bit primordial, wild and pre-historic mixed in with a good helping of 70’s disco.
—Jeanie Kwak
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
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Mik Cire by Eric Kim Fall 2010
Urban equestrian meets rock and roller for Eric Kim’s new menswear line, Mik Cire. The former CEO and designer of Monarchy impressed the crowd with his edgy yet relaxed, East coast meets West aesthetic. Models walked the runway clad in nattily fit leather motorcycle jackets, lambskin/ cashmere 3/4 length coats with asymmetrical zippers, drop crotch coated denim, cropped wool trousers and pony hair briefcases. Plaid made its way onto the fronts of coats (in a refined but punk, 90’s grunge nod), and flannel blended with cashmere and wool in vests. The result was a tough, yet elegant collection for the NYC urbanite who has a bit of the West coast, Montana range in him. Effortless and endlessly appealing. A gorgeous first for this veteran designer, who is also a father. His adorable baby son made an appearance during his bow donning (would you expect anything less?) dropped red suspenders and wool cap. A perfectly executed show and promising new collection.
—Jeanie Kwak
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn.
[svgallery name=”mik_cire_fall2010″]
Christian Siriano Fall 2010
Christian Siriano has a reputation to uphold. The Spring collection last September was so ebullient, I wanted to burst into applause (and I did, due to some lovely, otherworldly gowns). I did not expect anything less from him this season. For this Fall collection, the young Project Runway winner focused on a European look, specifically Parisian women of the 1960’s. It is a look back to when women got dressed everyday and wore suits and gloves and beautiful shoes.
This return to classic wear is reinterpreted in a sharper, sleeker silhouette. The show opened with a fitted leather zip front jacket and a wool pencil skirt and then progressed into a collection of wing sleeve cashmere coats and chevron print ensembles. Models donned large sparkly shades, their hair sleek and swept to the side
reminiscent of old Hollywood screen sirens, perfect for the smoky blue lighting on the runway. The collection then turned airier and lighter as metallics and chiffon blouses and dresses emerged. Unexpected colors like fuchsia and ruffles also began to appear, flounced and running asymmetrically down satin cocktail dresses and adorning the sides of shoes. But what Christian is known and adored for, at least by me, are his gowns. The stunner was an organza soft charcoal multi-tiered gown with a draped shoulder. Muted, soft and wonderful to watch, the dress moved in a shape-shifting mesmerizing way. It was not fitted, but the airiness of the organza gave it an ethereal quality. But he saved the best for last. A model appeared in a brilliant fuchsia gown that had a frothy train of scalloped tulle that trailed behind her. There it was, the grandiose gesture I was waiting for. The reserve that was apparent at the start of the show escalated to this, most epic display of luxe gowns. Someone send him to Paris. He’s ready.
—Jeanie Kwak
Photos By Stevyn Llewellyn
Vintage Cocktails with Hugo Boss and Harper’s Bazaar
Hugo Boss hosted Harper’s Bazaar Magazine for the launch of the photo-book Vintage Cocktails, published by Assouline Press on Thursday, December 3rd. We arrived to a sequin-clad crowd mingling about the store and sipping cocktails fashioned from the book, such as The Cider House Rules and an unnameable refreshing Cucumber-tequila infused cocktail served in an elegant collins glass. The photo-book revisits the glamour of old-world cocktails such as The Brandy Alexander, The French 75, The Gin Fizz, The Pimm’s Cup, The Dark & Stormy, The Kir Royal, The Sazerac. Photographer Laziz Hamini used the background of the Carlyle Hotel as a backdrop. The book can be previewed and purchased online at www.assouline.com, or in-store at the Plaza Hotel and at Sotheby’s.
-Jeanie Kwak
Photos By Stevyn Llewellyn[svgallery name=”hugo_boss”]
Shane & Shawn
If you’re like me, you know that pain is sometimes a necessary evil when squeezing into a pair of beautiful shoes. But look at the leather cut-outs! Look at the height on that heel, the towering platform, the straps and buckles and tie-ups! We will gladly suffer the pain in order to wear a bit of art on our feet. As women, we accept this; Centuries of history has us squeezing, zippering and sucking into the vessel of our choice. But after an hour of traversing concrete NYC streets, or a vigorous night of dancing, I often question my own propensity for pain and wonder about the sadist in me that submits my feet to so much misery. I then toss the items of question into a closet, cursing my vanity and swearing I will never walk in them again (or at least until I forget the pain). Twin shoe designers Shane & Shawn think a lot about girls like me and they believe you don’t have to sacrifice your toes in order to look beautiful. We talked to them about their company, their philosophy of comfort and design and where they see themselves in the future.
Twins Shawn and Shane Ward were born in Detroit, and studied in The University of Michigan. The brothers began their careers in the Automotive industry,and were later inspired to become entrepreneurs. After forming a business partnership, they started their own freelance design consultancy agency, SW2Design which became one of the most sought after freelance design consultancies in the footwear industry, designing shoes for AND1, Fila, Puma, Royal Elastics, Adidas, Airwalk and Converse to name a few.
With the success of SW2Design, the twins continued to progress, creating a footwear brand of their own. The line called Shane and Shawn is inspired by the lifestyle of jet setting individuals who demand style with uncompromised fit and function.
Coming from an engineering background, you’ve really utilized your technical skills in a creative way. When you’re designing: what do you think about structurally when you are creating a shoe?
Structurally, it”s about two main objectives. – comfort and fit. how can we make the shoe comfortable underneath the foot and how do we need to design the upper so that it does not create discomfort to the ankles or any other part of the foot .
Are you more faithful to aesthetic form or function? Or does that vary from shoe to shoe?
It is always a balance between the two. One is never more important than the other. It’s just about recognizing that if you design a beautiful shoe, then it will be picked up off the shelf, but if it isn’t comfortable, it will not be purchased.
What do you think makes a beautiful shoe?
The perfect combination of shape, materials, details, and visual excitement creates a beautiful shoe.
There’s so many architecturally designed footwear on the scene now that look more and more fantasy oriented with different silhouettes and over the top accessories. What is your opinion of that whole trend?
I think the trend is positive, whenever the traditional ways of creating and designing is challenged, it’s a positive. Trends like this push all of us designers to new levels.
Do you think you will ever branch out to other accessories? I see that you have done pillows and tshirts to benefit charities. Ever thought of a home or bath line?
We are always looking to expand our offerings when the timing is right. You will see the Shane&Shawn brand expand into more categories in the next 2 years.
What kind of woman do you design for? What kind of man?
We design for who we call the boardroom rockstar. The professionals who have an incredible lifestyle and love fashion.
I love how you’ve collaborated with painters to create an “Artist’s Series.” Can you talk a little bit about that experience?
The artist series was born out of our love for the art community and giving back. The ideas was very pure, in that we wanted to create a collection of shoes that showcased the talent of the downtown new art scene while making a difference in the inner city (33% of all sales of artist series god to the art program of nycares).
Any future collaborations?
Yes, we will be making a big announcement in a couple weeks.
What’s next for Shane & Shawn?
We are taking our flagship retail business on the road with a mobile flagship. (See more information Below)
-Interview by Jeanie Kwak
Information about the Mobile Flagship Store:
In one of their most exciting ventures to date, the innovative twins are taking their stylish designs on the road with the Shane&ShawnMobile Flagship Tour. Shawn Ward, President and Co-founder of the brand explains how the idea came about, “We have always loved taking opportunities to meet the supporters of Shane&Shawn and are constantly receiving requests to open stores in other cities of the United States. We felt limited with a fixed location and decided to think outside the box, go beyond the concept du jour of the pop-up store and bring Shane&Shawn to the people in a way that no one has done before. We have created a luxury Mobile Flagship and will take the store on tour across the country. With our strong social media following, we can keep our consumers aware of our every move as we tour the US.” Keeping with their commitment to philanthropy, 10% of all sales during the tour will go toward eliminating violence against women and girls, with donations to V-Day. The twins are excited to announce the first three tour dates on the Shane&Shawn Mobile Flagship Tour:
Sundance Film Festival Park City, Utah January 21st – 31st, 2010
Super Bowl Weekend Miami, Fl February 5th – 7th, 2010
Tribeca Film Festival New York, NY April 21st – May 2nd, 2010
With the launch of their mobile flagship, the brand will be saying farewell to their Nolita location in New York City for the time being. Constant tour updates will be communicated via the SHANE&SHAWN Twitter and Facebook pages, as well as on their website at www.shaneandshawn.com.