Tag Archives: fashion

Paola Hernandez Spring 2009

Paola Hernandez presented a very languid and luxurious show today at the Soho Grand Hotel. After the hustle and bustle of Fashion Week, it was lovely to enjoy a couple glasses of wine and interact with the models. The Mexican-born designer, Hernandez, also circled the room, describing her all-white collection. The looks were mainly androgynous, with linen sandals and large talisman rings worn by both male and female models.

There was also a runway presentation, but the models walked with exaggerated, unhurried steps, pausing several times so we could see the subtle details in the white cotton and linen pieces. The dimly lit room also added to the dreamy ambiance – I liked how clean, crisp lines were accentuated even more with shadows.

The racerback, long v-neck dress was my favorite. From afar, the piece resembled fine gauge knitwear, but the ribs and deep scoop played well on jersey for a more lavish appearance.

There were many facets to the presentation which I really enjoyed – the trim trenchcoat looked incredibly modern with the ultra-high collar. The elastic waist-banded jumpsuit was super sporty. A sharp blazer thrown over Bermuda-style shorts was fun and preppy.

– Tiffany Chang

Vicente Villarin Spring 2009

Vicente Villarin made its debut runway presentation today at the House of Bumble. For Spring 2009, Designer Joanne Cordero Reyes offered a collection of ethereal dresses, aptly named “Light Against Sky”.

It was a cool combination of chiffon and rock as undulating ruffles and pleats carried its own beat. Cathedral elements such as vivid stained glass windows and marble cream pillars were transformed into feminine silhouettes. Reyes looked to bring “pure, modern elegance” by using romantic textures and architectural influences. Linen/cotton jackets featuring charming shoulder details brought flying buttresses to mind while statuesque forms illuminated an airy and soft serenity. My favorite was a gown with appliqué made to look like rose glass shards sprinkling over the landscape of the fabric. Details were not to be overlooked, with silver zippers and gold accented shoes as finishing touches.

I am truly excited to discover another contemporary Asian designer. Reyes is Filipino American and takes her greatest inspiration from her grandfather, Vicente Villarin Cordero, who was a composer. Reyes’ highly flirty, but incredibly sophisticated line is definitely something to include in your closet and look out for on red carpets!

– Tiffany Chang

Harlan Bel Spring 2009

Harlan BelI very much looked forward to Harlan Bel’s Spring 2009 show after learning that designer Brandy Lunsford draws inspiration from equestrian themes. Lunsford’s collections always feature tailored, functional pieces that convey “cool confidence and carefree beauty”.

There was something very dignified and noble in Lunsford’s presentation. Classic black and white formed the foundation of the collection, especially in the form of leather and silk. Pleasant jewel tones of turquoise, peridot, and amethyst emblazoned the sleek palette.

Crisp, clean pieces were anything but plain when embellished with canvas and suede suspender-like straps, tiered pleats, and sharp cut-outs. The plethora of short shorts, cropped tees, and strapless dresses were youthful and sexy!

I was absolutely fixated at the frizzy, crimped ponytails swinging back and forth – the wrapped black leather added a touch of high class. The ebony platform heels really brought to mind dainty, galloping hooves. The most amusing accessory was the sophisticated, lady-like eyewear.

-Tiffany Chang

Mara Hoffman Spring 2009


Photo by Stevyn Llewellyn

For Spring 2009, Mara Hoffman presented a collection suitable for an exotic, tropical getaway. A bevy of geometric prints and intricate floral details on one-shoulder sheaths and tunics looked refreshing, especially when paired with tailored pieces. Airy cotton and linen paired well with leather accessories and canvas trenchcoats. Bandeau tops and tapered shorts were staples as well as the “Mara Tote”, a hot travel accessory and chic vest all in one!

Resort-fabulous pieces include a white babydoll, absolutely darling with frog clasps under an embroidered, kimono-sleeved robe. A halter swimsuit featuring black and yellow henna designs and the ornate blue and orange sari-wrapped bikini were marvelous.


The Architect of Fashion Goes for a Dip

Yeohlee – In a season where craftsmanship is becoming a major story- Yeohlee Teng stands a pillar and reminder that making beautiful clothes is an art form.

For Spring Yeohlee Teng offered a meditation on the globule shape of jellyfish juxtaposed with a surprisingly new take on the geometric rigidity of cubes and parabola shapes. The result- a collection that felt organic and ethereal but grounded.

Well known for her structured clothing this collection felt decidedly softer and I dare say, even feminine. The Yeohlee aesthetic is rooted in clean, strong linear lines and the exploration of form and structure, so this season’s softer direction felt especially fresh.
Popular to a sect of fashion intellectuals who count on her each season to provide, what have become Yeohlee staples- useful but intriguing separate including- trousers, capelets, and hooded coats. This collection featured jumpers paired with parka like jackets that looked modern and actually very wearable. Yeohlee is every bit a craftsperson and each season she takes on a new technique, this season it appeared to be shirring and tucking. I was particular fascinated by what Teng referred to as shirring- essential a bias torque ruching that would diagonally bisect blouses, dresses and skirts. Teng echoed the whimsical shapes of jellyfish with an ingenuity that is true of only a well seasoned architect. This technique of shirring produced the billowy look that is characteristic of floating jellyfish. Instead of collars, Teng framed the face with this amorphous shape on blouses and light weight jackets. This softer incarnation of the Yeohlee look was a masterful rendition of deductions and redirection.

The collection was rendered in a soothing palette and interesting fabrics. The combination of sheer or translucent jerseys mixed with starchy fabrics lent a sensual and tactile element to collection. For Spring ’09 Teng’s play on sheer and opaque fabric added an intriguing tension to the collection. Sheer blouses with linen skirts were the perfect balance of languid and rigid. Always a purest when it comes to selecting her color palette for spring, Yeohlee constrained her color story to soft sand tones highlighted with a bold coral underlined with lots of white.

For Spring ’09 Yeohlee invites us to take a dip with her and explore the weightless beauty of deep waters and easy dressing. True to her roots but reaching for the unknown this collection was an underwater dream. Teng stands a steady presence in the roaring sea of fashion trends and comings and goings- her work always retains a standard of quality and beauty that uplifts and moves the industry forward.

A. Coelho
Photos © Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, 2008, all rights reserved