Tag Archives: fall 2009

fashion

Carlos Miele Fall 2009

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Carlos Miele – In a season of uncertainty designers are playing to their strengths, for Miele that means evening wear. This season Miele offered up what he does best- slinky evening gowns and pretty cocktail dresses. Relying on charmeuse, Miele created a series of poured on gowns with a decidedly darker edge for a designer who generally favors feminine pretty.

There were intriguing moments but on a whole, the collection felt a little disjointed and fell short of a cohesive point of view.

– A Coelho

Photos © Stevyn Llewellyn 2009.

To see the entire collection in a slideshow, click here.


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Akiko Ogawa Fall 2009

akiko1Akiko Ogawa-This mid week show offered much of what appears to be a la mode in New York: asymmetrical structured jackets (in this case juxtaposed with draped skirts of the sarong sort). Akiko Ogawa presented an edgy take on Fall favoring fitted jackets with bold shapes and tailoring coupled with nubby sweaters and lean trousers. The collection reflected a sleeker take for the designer who in earlier seasons displayed a penchant for feminine overtures.

The most noteworthy element of the collection was the tension Ogawa was able to create both in fabric combinations as well as in combining structured jackets with delicately draped pieces. She paired nubby cardigans, and sweaters with lean trousers.  The overall look was youthful but edgy. The show opened with a nubby cardigan in a tealy blue belted and paired with sarong style skirt.  Ogawa demonstrated a flare for construction creating asymmetrical jackets that while daring retained a figure flattering shape. Ogawa took a stab at the ever so tricky jauper showing it in wool paired with a matching bolero style jacket in an admiral navy. Of the many jackets shown a favorite was a winter white version with large lapels.

The palette further reinforced Ogawa’s moody fall musing; constrained to a moody range of navy and black offset by ivory, a rose quartz tone and an ombre that slipped between the three. While ombres were all the rage just last Fall Ogawa’s version seemed worthy of note, perhaps because of the note of softness it added to the otherwise aggressively shaped jackets.

In moments the show became repetitive but the take away collection anecdote was lean and but not mean. In a season of tepid shows, Ogawa presented a collection with a spirited point of view that was worthy of consideration. Ogawa remains a talent to watch. Her command of balance and tension is worth keeping an eye on.

-A Coelho
Photos © Stevyn Llewellyn 2009.
View a slideshow of the entire Akiko Ogawa collection, below.

See the end of the show below:

See still photos from the show below.


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Venexiana

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venexianaKati Stern, the genius behind the Venexiana label, is one of those overly-accomplished people we love to hate.  In this case, however, we just have to love her.  Ms Stern’s Fall 2009 Collection was simply “deco-dent.” Models looked as if they walked directly out of a Tamara de Lempicka painting and onto the runway—glamorous, statuesque and glowing in shimmery tones of gold. As per usual, we saw no shortage of fur and luxurious fabrics.  Rich, buttery satin; tonal, metallic jacquard; sheer, luminescent silk (and I do mean SHEER – panties were visible through more than one ensemble) and, of course, leather were the staples of the collection.  Stern also showed some black sequin-embellished dresses which were stunning – my favorite pieces.

Evidence of her former career (well, one of them at least) in architecture was apparent in the shape and lines of the pieces.  Even the hairstyle (every model wore the same), which was pulled back with geometric, blunt bangs, portrayed a sense of structure.  Proportion was long and lean, peplums decorated columnar and strapless dresses, and empire seams cut across many styles providing opportunity to combine fabrics and play with necklines and bodice treatments.  Asymmetry played a big role through hemlines, slanted seams and one-shoulder ensembles (as was the case with many designers this season – and last).  Ms. Stern kept things from looking too severe by adding pretty bows, rosettes, fluttery sleeves and feminine fabrics.  She showed a very cohesive and well-executed collection and I’m sure we’ll be seeing many of these looks on many red carpets.

-Stacy Lomman
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

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Tadashi Shoji Fall 2009

Tadashi Shoji photo by Stevyn Llewellyn

Designer Tadashi Shoji unveiled a crisp and very upbeat dress collection for Fall 2009. Vivacious hues, such as Rapture Rose, played an important role in casting this season’s message of hope and clarity. Wisteria, turquoise, and lime also livened up the sheer cream and ebony numbers.

Shoji worked a stunning, minimalistic approach in his styling where light elements (such as ruffled chiffon, sweetheart halters, and bubble pleats) received the rock glam treatment. The black tights, patent leather heels, studded belts, and crystal rhinestone baubles kept things powerful and edgy without overshadowing the feminine undertones.

– Tiffany Chang

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
See more photos from the Tadashi Shoji Show below


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Christian Siriano Fall 2009

siriano1Christian Siriano aimed to give “the modern working girl a bit of Cleopatra’s drama” with his Egyptian-inspired Fall 2009 collection. Expect gold, chocolate brown, and dark turquoise in bold shapes and cuts. Intriguing styles include a satin high collar, puff sleeve blouse with sculpted front petals, a sleek vest slipped over a cashmere cowlneck sweater, and a number of hard metallic pieces suggestive of the sacred scarab beetle.

One can never have too many coats in the fall, and Siriano provides a wide range of flattering silhouettes, from the classic peacoat with gold zippers, to outerwear with cinched waists, bell sleeves, and tuxedo pintuck details. There were also several one-shoulder ruched dresses, but Siriano does especially well with his grandiose gowns, complete with a daring headdress, gathered train, and hammered satin layers. The gold lips and those fetching, fringed bangs brought a nice costume effect.

Siriano also debuted his shoe collection for Payless.  The gold pyramid heels, stacked chains, and subtle hieroglyphic print complemented the Egyptian theme, but would make the transition marvelously onto city streets.

– Tiffany Chang

See more photos from the Christian Siriano show below