Tag Archives: design

CHOCHENG Fall 2009

February 17, 2009 Glossy

Cho Cheng’s Fall 2009 presentation sings of Shanghai chic in the 1960s. Cheerful colors include turquoise, “cherry”, and “canary yellow”. There was heavy emphasis on luxurious suiting in the form of trim wool blazers with prim collars and French cuffs, velvet riding habits adorned with gold buttons, and jackets complete with satin lapels and lacy ruffles. The designer’s signature use of velvet is also seen in the cropped pleated pants and mini skirts. All looks were topped off with dapper blonde bobs, a chiseled appearance which brought an air of aristocracy.

The traditional qipao has also been translated into a more contemporary context, seen with the metallic tints and slinkier fit. Showstoppers include a series of “siren” gowns in champagne gold with sequins, baby pink complete with bow and train, and the white satin Sabrina gown. This statuesque silhouette was a vibrant throwback to old Hollywood glamour.

– Tiffany Chang

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Erin Fetherston Fall 2009

February 16, 2009 Glossy

Erin Fetherston staged a wildly imaginative presentation named “Tinderbox” for Fall 2009. Her creative cast of “polished” figurines embodied “refined whimsy” and hinted of Corpse Bride meets Waldorf ladies at cotillion. There was definitely a large dose of style and humor that had guests positively beaming in anticipation.

Toy soldiers came to life in a circus showing of the marvelous “teacup skirt” – a tutu concoction of silk-fil jacquard – as well as a sleek jersey catsuit, a pair of black & white striped tights, and silk/tweed separates bedecked with black dots and ruby gingham. A velvet fez stood atop heavily crimped tresses, adding a charming touch to the layers of lace and royal marching jackets and riding coats. Nutcracker-esque elements of giant crystal bows, doll bubble dresses, and trim leather belts had me almost seeing dancing en pointe.

The second half of Fetherston’s presentation was a collage of sweet lavender hues and magnolia blossom prints. Appealing details include smooth, elbow-length gloves and ornamental masks (pinned to the hair). One cannot help but dwell upon painted features on perfect porcelain. Don’t expect to see any chips or cracks here. “Tinderbox” ends on a high note and a sigh of pleasure with an extravagant, flouncy silk tulle and chiffon Queen Doll gown.

– Tiffany Chang

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Rebecca Taylor Spring 2009

February 5, 2009 Glossy

Preparing for Spring still seems an ambitious undertaking of spirits, considering we are likely to see much more snow between now and then. Rebecca Taylor’s Spring 09 collection hopes to push away our dreary disdain of winter for more jovial meditations.

Taylor‘s prescription for Spring is a boho-cum-chiclet girl chic. Relying on classic boho ease the collection is comprised of a series of easy, loose fitting dresses and tops with lace up detailing. The subtle palette of earthen tones is bolstered by vibrant paisley prints in saturated hues. Dries Van Noten’s layering of prints has definitely set off a trend in the industry. Taylor follows suit with a girly series of metallic prints that range in monochromatic shades on one garment.

Taylor’s nostalgic rendition of the sixties includes all the hallmark motifs and shapes that made the era’s style so iconic: peasant blouses, tunics and roomy skirts. Taylor updates the look by including pieces with more structure, heavier fabrics that lend to a more modern take. Taylor offers a series of separates that can easily mix into the contemporary woman’s existing wardrobe. Stand outs include flirty party dresses in brilliant colors. A favorite was a lapis and serilium frock with drop waist, flowy skirt and gold speckle print. All in all Taylor presented a collection that is perfect for her girl. It had all the girly finesse and fun that her clients clamor for.

Recalling the carefree ecstasy of the sixties may just be the right note for this moment and time. Perhaps it is a little time for peace and love!

-Alexander Coelho

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Monique Lhuillier

November 1, 2008 Glossy

Always beautiful and feminine, Monique Lhuillier’s spring presentation did not disappoint. Softly sculpted gowns in colors inspired by a vacation in a tropical beach local flowed down the runway. The aptly named colors (azure, sand, summer, pacific blue) and back-to-nature prints such as wave and wheat stalk further exemplified the inspiration.
A silk tulle asymmetrically draped gown in a blue that Lhuiller dubbed “lagoon” appeared to stream along the runway exemplifying the water it was chosen to represent. Beading and tulle overlays further conveyed movement in a collection that was as relaxing and refreshing as a day at the beach.

– Lyndsay Skeegan

Photos by Mercedes Benz fashion Week

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Return of The King

September 21, 2008 Glossy

Chado Raplh Rucci SPring 2009 — Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2009

CHADO- He is back and in fighting form- on Friday night Ralph Rucci closed New York Fashion Week with all the fanfare and warm embrace of the returned prodigal son. Rucci is a prodigious talent and while he is often lost in the minutiae of the New York fashion set, his work stands as a testament to his great talent. As the world of haute couture skirts dangerously close to oblivion it is important that we uphold one of our most brilliant haute courtiers.

I must admit that I am partially biased; I have long been a Rucci enthusiast. For Spring ’09 Rucci sent out a strong line up of clothing suitable for every occasion- from smart day wear to gripping evening gowns. The couturier crystallized those hallmark Ruccisms and move them into a more approachable direction. He showed continued mastery over the art of construction.

Chado is a meditation on form, line and structure. Each season many designers attempt to redesign the wheel, but Rucci instead continues an exploration of his signature shapes enlisting new applications and techniques. Bold shoulders seemed particularly new for the designer who is known for a more gentle approach towards the shoulder and décolleté. He used various types of artistic fringe to great affect, inciting riotous applause as models turned on the runway to reveal the insets of fringe. Illusion with geometric cut outs were a strong motif in this season’s line up. The cutouts appeared on a tulle coat over an A-line dress and on a black sheer top paired with slouchy black satin trousers. Other moments of decadent indulgence included the gowns with Rothko inspired paielletes or the slinky floor length sequins skirt with sheer top and matching jacket.

Spring 09 marked a departure for Rucci who seemed to be courting a younger generation of fashion intellectuals. Though at moments the collection showed the wavering uncertainty of a babe horse gaining her sea legs, Rucci has the talent to address a younger audience and his Spring collection suggests the beginning this new courtship. The collection was proliferated with a plethora of coquettish dresses that remain true to the spirit of Chado. Rucci was careful to remain mindful of his faithful followers offering intriguing pant suits with jackets of rounded shoulders with detailing on tulle or crepe. This collection was an exercise in restrains and what I expect will be the blossoming of a new point of view at the house of Chado.

Welcome back Ralph!

A. Coelho

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn