As a Pratt Alum, Andy & Debb Spring 2010 was another collection that did me proud. The pieces played with shapes, textures and had a very 50’s feel. I can see them dressing the cast of MadMen with this line. We saw bubble skirts and chic tailored suits in a palette of burnt orange, copper, gold, and magentas. Kudos, Prattlings.
– Monica Lo
Photos © Stevyn Llewellyn
Designer Amy Smilovic instills a Russian fairytale’s “light-hearted moodiness” into Tibi’s Fall 2009 presentation. Ornate bird motifs and rich furs highlighted the collection while lavish use of gold trimming, which hinted of embroidery and brocade, kept off-shoulder folk dresses and jumpsuits refreshingly modern.
Expect solid citrus shades on flowy, asymmetrical sheaths and dusky hues on tailored outerwear. The theme is well captured with the dainty tsarina-inspired ruffle riding jacket and the long and lean Bolshevik wool coat. Large crystal chandelier earrings and traditional fur hats added an icy glamour.
Staple pieces include the stovepipe stretch wool pants and dark scooped tanks. There were a number dazzling looks with the boatneck Doystoevsky bloom sheath – a kaleidoscope of magenta blossoms in a teal pool – and the Enchanted Forest chiffon dress with gold beading. Other prints include purple and teal paisley, seen on tunics under fox furs, and the navy Firebird emblem.
– Tiffany Chang
Photos by Sandra Rosales
Cho Cheng’s Fall 2009 presentation sings of Shanghai chic in the 1960s. Cheerful colors include turquoise, “cherry”, and “canary yellow”. There was heavy emphasis on luxurious suiting in the form of trim wool blazers with prim collars and French cuffs, velvet riding habits adorned with gold buttons, and jackets complete with satin lapels and lacy ruffles. The designer’s signature use of velvet is also seen in the cropped pleated pants and mini skirts. All looks were topped off with dapper blonde bobs, a chiseled appearance which brought an air of aristocracy.
The traditional qipao has also been translated into a more contemporary context, seen with the metallic tints and slinkier fit. Showstoppers include a series of “siren” gowns in champagne gold with sequins, baby pink complete with bow and train, and the white satin Sabrina gown. This statuesque silhouette was a vibrant throwback to old Hollywood glamour.
– Tiffany Chang
Erin Fetherston staged a wildly imaginative presentation named “Tinderbox” for Fall 2009. Her creative cast of “polished” figurines embodied “refined whimsy” and hinted of Corpse Bride meets Waldorf ladies at cotillion. There was definitely a large dose of style and humor that had guests positively beaming in anticipation.
Toy soldiers came to life in a circus showing of the marvelous “teacup skirt” – a tutu concoction of silk-fil jacquard – as well as a sleek jersey catsuit, a pair of black & white striped tights, and silk/tweed separates bedecked with black dots and ruby gingham. A velvet fez stood atop heavily crimped tresses, adding a charming touch to the layers of lace and royal marching jackets and riding coats. Nutcracker-esque elements of giant crystal bows, doll bubble dresses, and trim leather belts had me almost seeing dancing en pointe.
The second half of Fetherston’s presentation was a collage of sweet lavender hues and magnolia blossom prints. Appealing details include smooth, elbow-length gloves and ornamental masks (pinned to the hair). One cannot help but dwell upon painted features on perfect porcelain. Don’t expect to see any chips or cracks here. “Tinderbox” ends on a high note and a sigh of pleasure with an extravagant, flouncy silk tulle and chiffon Queen Doll gown.
– Tiffany Chang
Exclusive coverage from the Fall 2009 Collections during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week will be presented here at Modern Glossy from our creative team. Stay Tuned.