Tibi Fall 2009

February 18, 2009 Glossy 2 Comments

Designer Amy Smilovic instills a Russian fairytale’s “light-hearted moodiness” into Tibi’s Fall 2009 presentation. Ornate bird motifs and rich furs highlighted the collection while lavish use of gold trimming, which hinted of embroidery and brocade, kept off-shoulder folk dresses and jumpsuits refreshingly modern.

Expect solid citrus shades on flowy, asymmetrical sheaths and dusky hues on tailored outerwear. The theme is well captured with the dainty tsarina-inspired ruffle riding jacket and the long and lean Bolshevik wool coat. Large crystal chandelier earrings and traditional fur hats added an icy glamour.

Staple pieces include the stovepipe stretch wool pants and dark scooped tanks. There were a number dazzling looks with the boatneck Doystoevsky bloom sheath – a kaleidoscope of magenta blossoms in a teal pool – and the Enchanted Forest chiffon dress with gold beading. Other prints include purple and teal paisley, seen on tunics under fox furs, and the navy Firebird emblem.

– Tiffany Chang

Photos by Sandra Rosales

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CHOCHENG Fall 2009

February 17, 2009 Glossy

Cho Cheng’s Fall 2009 presentation sings of Shanghai chic in the 1960s. Cheerful colors include turquoise, “cherry”, and “canary yellow”. There was heavy emphasis on luxurious suiting in the form of trim wool blazers with prim collars and French cuffs, velvet riding habits adorned with gold buttons, and jackets complete with satin lapels and lacy ruffles. The designer’s signature use of velvet is also seen in the cropped pleated pants and mini skirts. All looks were topped off with dapper blonde bobs, a chiseled appearance which brought an air of aristocracy.

The traditional qipao has also been translated into a more contemporary context, seen with the metallic tints and slinkier fit. Showstoppers include a series of “siren” gowns in champagne gold with sequins, baby pink complete with bow and train, and the white satin Sabrina gown. This statuesque silhouette was a vibrant throwback to old Hollywood glamour.

– Tiffany Chang

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William Rast Fall 2009

February 17, 2009 Glossy 1 Comment

For Fall 2009, we are embracing a “renewed confidence” as well as getting our kicks on Route 66. The creative team at William Rast – label founders Justin Timberlake and Trace Ayala, along with Marcella and Johan Lindeberg – delivered “New America”, a “dusty” and black & white “biker culture” where the only direction is forward, no maps required.

The collection is grounded in American iconography, with focus on stonewashed denim, fringed leather biker jackets, and the classic white tee, all with a modern twist. Sleek fits, some unusual wide sculpted shoulders, and a huge feather and fur trimmed dress bring a couture element to our favorite pastimes of cross-country road-trips and bunking under the open night sky.

Men and women share the same attitude. Re-crafted blazers feature leather lapels and jean pockets. The crisp dress shirt is “re-energized” with black fringe tassels while contoured lace patches add a feminine touch to dirty denim. The stripes-and-no-stars graphic shown on grey tees is wonderfully vintage, especially when paired with flannel plaids and chrome grommet details. The collection also includes sleek vests, leather pants, and black skinny and acid wash jeans. Heavy ankle boots with stud detail (and even more fringe) completed each look.

– Tiffany Chang

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Tracy Reese Fall 2009

February 17, 2009 Glossy

In a preview of the Fall 2009 season, Tracy Reese used a brilliant term to describe her post-Impressionist inspired collection. “Rustic chic” packs a wonderful imagery of romance and a modern take on the countryside. With reference to Vuillard and Van Gogh, we look forward to distinctive “paint stokes” of patterns, distorted silhouettes, and vivid colours.

Reese’s layered prints create a visual feast from head to toe. Pink floral secretary blouses were tucked into high-waisted tapered pinstripe pants. Unbuttoned herringbone blazers flapped with carefree ease over a cornucopia of dark blossoms. Oversized sweater tunics and jackets both cropped and long offer a touch of glamour. Rich tones include lime, “basil green” and raspberry.

Sweet ruffles and knee-length black stockings bring an artistic mood, something you expect from congregating painters and poets at the corner café. Velvet and fur trimmed outerwear make for a perfect day at the Musée du Louvre. Striking accessories include feathered amulets, detachable fur collars, swinging black pearls and leather elbow-length gloves. And you can’t go wrong with dark-rimmed eyewear either, which adorned every look from the elegant – a glossy teal cocktail dress and a black lace-embellished persimmon tank dress – to the academia – boxy blazers and high collar cardigan twinsets.

– Tiffany Chang

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Erin Fetherston Fall 2009

February 16, 2009 Glossy

Erin Fetherston staged a wildly imaginative presentation named “Tinderbox” for Fall 2009. Her creative cast of “polished” figurines embodied “refined whimsy” and hinted of Corpse Bride meets Waldorf ladies at cotillion. There was definitely a large dose of style and humor that had guests positively beaming in anticipation.

Toy soldiers came to life in a circus showing of the marvelous “teacup skirt” – a tutu concoction of silk-fil jacquard – as well as a sleek jersey catsuit, a pair of black & white striped tights, and silk/tweed separates bedecked with black dots and ruby gingham. A velvet fez stood atop heavily crimped tresses, adding a charming touch to the layers of lace and royal marching jackets and riding coats. Nutcracker-esque elements of giant crystal bows, doll bubble dresses, and trim leather belts had me almost seeing dancing en pointe.

The second half of Fetherston’s presentation was a collage of sweet lavender hues and magnolia blossom prints. Appealing details include smooth, elbow-length gloves and ornamental masks (pinned to the hair). One cannot help but dwell upon painted features on perfect porcelain. Don’t expect to see any chips or cracks here. “Tinderbox” ends on a high note and a sigh of pleasure with an extravagant, flouncy silk tulle and chiffon Queen Doll gown.

– Tiffany Chang