Betsey Johnson featured her high energy spring 2010 presentation in the Plaza Hotel. A live band playied classic rock songs, while the models on stage wore candy colored hues, printed tops and ruffled skirts. A line that showed care in it’s craft, but never taking itself too seriously.
Photos by Olga Lader
Lola Haze TM designer, Laura Mehlinger gives Modern Glossy an exclusive interview about her newest collection.
Your theme for the fall is Wabi Sabi City —how did this influence your design direction for fall 2009?
Times of uncertainty—and times were bad when I designed this collection—call for a return to the body and an acceptance of imperfection and transience. For Fall/Winter 2009, I examined the Japanese ideal of wabi sabi, in which beauty is found in imperfection, impermanence and quirks. While referring to this concept, I continued the distinct aesthetics that are the hallmarks of Lola Haze TM: boldness, play, and the energy of New York City.
When you began this collection, how do you begin envisioning it as a whole? Are you influenced by a general theme or idea and organically develop from there, or do you have a more directed focus as to what you want to do?
I began with the conceptual framework of wabi sabi, and then developed specific ways of expressing the concept. One of the visual themes of the collection is body ornamentation. In the Tattoo group, designs inspired by tribal and eastern body ornamentation are hand-painted onto sheer black mesh, a fabric that both veils and reveals the body underneath. The marks, imperfect themselves, caress and frame the body’s natural contours. But these Tattoos are transient ornamentation, and the revelation comes when the tattoos are skimmed off the body, leaving only the natural form.
How has living in New York influenced the design process in your work—Do your surroundings influence you?
The energy of the city,its playfulness juxtaposed with its moments of classic beauty, are reflected in the sensibility of Lola Haze TM. Also, I look to New York women all the time for inspiration and to see what their mood is. Specifically in this collection, I embraced the simplicity and appeal of one piece dressing: rompers, teddies, jumpsuits, body stockings, and plenty of chemises and slips. Alongside these modern silhouettes are updates to some Lola Haze TM favorites.
What type of woman do you envision wearing Lola Haze?
Women who are bold and playful and dress for themselves!
Where can we purchase Lola Haze?
You can buy Lola Haze TM at a range of stores from Victoria’s Secret to Love Brigade and Friends. Go to www.lolahaze.com for stores.
Are you currently working on any other projects?
I am continuing my collaboration with New York artist Charlotte Pinson with a series of quirky, elegant painted silk tops and dresses. I love the collaborative process and the focus on surface art and design.
Additionally, I’m continuing to teach Panty Making Workshops, which are a big hit (makeworkshop.com). It’s gratifying and fun to see new sewers who start out so nervous take home their own pair of panties they made themselves.
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Phillip Lim’s spring 2010 collection shown in Bryant Park on September 16th, and 17th. Contains video from both runway shows. Videos by Stevyn Llewellyn. Be sure to check out the Interview with Phillip on our features page conducted by Andre Leon Talley of Vogue magazine.
Videos and Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
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The Academy of Art University showcased seven of their newly graduated designers from the Fashion, Textile and Knitwear Design program on September 12th at The Tent (Bryant Park). That’s no small feat for a young designer- a show at the Tent is sure to garner some attention. The show was an eclectic mix of lively colors, interesting play of shapes, cuts and textures, each designer veering off from their own source of inspiration—whether it was a David Hockney Painting, a Thai Buddhist temple or the intricate architecture found within a gem, each had a unique expression and vision.
Marina Nikolaeva Popska, a designer born and raised in Bulgaria, drew on the “color and chaos” of nature. Her collection was full of multi-colored jacquard dresses. The weight of the knits actually swayed a bit as the models walked down the runway. I thought this was interesting—I enjoyed watching the movement of the garment—one could feel and sense the pendulous weight of it. The patterns were lovely, rich but also carefully muted by a background base of nude tones. One particular dress reminded me of the inside of an oyster. Lovely.
Kara Sennet, drew upon the David Hockney 1966 painting, Beverly Hills Housewife.
The colors felt candy-like, sweet, almost artificially sweet, and I have to wonder if this artifice was intended, and I have to say yes, despite the retro-looking cuts and boat neck tunics. Once I saw the super shiny turquoise vinyl pants and wild neon yellow platforms, I see that she was taking the artifice and having a bit of fun with it. The color blocked bows are sweetly wrapped around the waist but are not actual bows. Models wore white rimmed shades and looked like larger than life dolls.
Amanda Cleary has interned with Elie Tahari and Verrieres and Sakko. Her background is in graphic design which accounts for the strong collage like feel of her collection. Her concept is “packaging design.” There are interesting cut-out details, almost puzzle-like and cut out key hole peeks of the neck and arms. Patterns are placed with different textural feels, such as bonding black silk Lurex to cotton twill which results in the look of eel skin. An interesting, strong collection.
Richelle Valenzuela, born in the Phillipines and long time San Francisco resident used the facets of a gem as inspiration. He focused on the architectural structure of a gem, its chambers, rather than its glitz. Working in gunmetal greys and slate blue silk organza, his collection swayed in layers of accordian like fabric and neatly pleated tops and skirts. White button down shirts were worn underneath his grey swaying pieces, providing a crisp, austere background to his architectural pieces. This only further accentuated the rich sway of fabric. A lovely collection.
Brittany Major, a designer that hails from the Carolinas, and who once interned with Zac Posen, had a collection full of bright plaids. While plaids may make one think of preppy conservatism, her collection deconstructs the idea of “preppy” and plays with one’s expectations where this pattern is concerned. Playful and fun.
Jie Pan, a designer from China, used the abstract paintings of Anna Fidler to show her technical design skills. There are strong geometrical cuts here, and strong contrasts of material such as horsehair with silk chiffon, linen with organza. Peak shoulders were wonderful to see. A strong, confident collection.
Sawanya Jomthepmala was born in Thailand. She drew upon the glass mosaics of Thai Buddhist temples as well as origami-like details of Krathong which are small boats made out of banana leaves. Her collection was full of neon prints and playful, symmetrical prints. Vests had wonderfully arched lapels, which unified a bright, energetic collection.
– Jeanie Kwak
Photos by Rachel Rozzi and Stevyn Llewellyn
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New York native Alexander Berardi gave us a “happy take on 2010”. Designs were delicate, feminine, and elegant, created for a very specific type of woman. Tiered ruffles, sexy sequin dresses and loose drapery were Upper East Side flirty. A key piece was the tuxedo inspired blazers for evening. A bright orange dress and a pink and orange floral print add a flash of color to the neutral collection. There was a sophisticated sailor influence with the navy hats and details like pleating, piping and gold buttons. A collection fit for a strong, classy Manhattanite.
-Maria Giannakakis
Photos by Sandra Rosales
