Custo Dalmau of Custo Barcelona promised us a “Mediterranean paradise” and the most “high energy show of the season” for his Spring 2010 viewing in the Tent at Bryant Park. If the Mediterranean is filled with near deafening house music and Alek Wek, count us in, at least for the first 10 minutes. Although Custo Barcelona gave us a definite value for the coveted seats in the black walled tent, the show ran awkwardly long and droned with the same background beats.

The collection was full of not-too-neon bright prints (that didn’t seem to have a running theme), fringed layers, and as much embroidered trim that you could (or couldn’t) ever want. If it wasn’t patterned, it was lamé. Lipstick painted mouths splashed all over the runway in “matchy-matchy” his-and-hers duets that brought up questions of, “now what couple would wear that together?” Shiny solid sports coats and prep star jackets in collegiate striped pink and green paired with purple brocade (and lamé, don’t forget) above the knee shorts.

Menswear and womenswear alternated on the platform, as well as hues of flesh. A bevy of dark skinned gods and goddesses tramped out on the runway followed by their lighter counterparts and then back again, which confused and distracted a bit from the clothing. Was Dalmau making some kind of social statement, or perhaps some kind of symmetry of the skin tones? What more, while each piece was elaborate and skillfully done on its own, and the collection cohesively color coded, the over-brilliance of each piece made the lot seem blander than intended. When every look is special, they all run together like melted crayons in the box. Custo gave exactly what he intended to give us when he said “high energy”, but unfortunately, it was of the sugar rush brand that came crashing down all too soon.
-Rachel Rozzi
Photos © Stevyn Llewellyn [svgallery name=”custo_barcelona”]