Christian Siriano has a reputation to uphold. The Spring collection last September was so ebullient, I wanted to burst into applause (and I did, due to some lovely, otherworldly gowns). I did not expect anything less from him this season. For this Fall collection, the young Project Runway winner focused on a European look, specifically Parisian women of the 1960’s. It is a look back to when women got dressed everyday and wore suits and gloves and beautiful shoes.

This return to classic wear is reinterpreted in a sharper, sleeker silhouette. The show opened with a fitted leather zip front jacket and a wool pencil skirt and then progressed into a collection of wing sleeve cashmere coats and chevron print ensembles. Models donned large sparkly shades, their hair sleek and swept to the side
reminiscent of old Hollywood screen sirens, perfect for the smoky blue lighting on the runway. The collection then turned airier and lighter as metallics and chiffon blouses and dresses emerged. Unexpected colors like fuchsia and ruffles also began to appear, flounced and running asymmetrically down satin cocktail dresses and adorning the sides of shoes. But what Christian is known and adored for, at least by me, are his gowns. The stunner was an organza soft charcoal multi-tiered gown with a draped shoulder. Muted, soft and wonderful to watch, the dress moved in a shape-shifting mesmerizing way. It was not fitted, but the airiness of the organza gave it an ethereal quality. But he saved the best for last. A model appeared in a brilliant fuchsia gown that had a frothy train of scalloped tulle that trailed behind her. There it was, the grandiose gesture I was waiting for. The reserve that was apparent at the start of the show escalated to this, most epic display of luxe gowns. Someone send him to Paris. He’s ready.
—Jeanie Kwak
Photos By Stevyn Llewellyn

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